Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Mr. Bigglesworth

5.11+, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 14 votes
FA: Paul Teare, 1999
Nevada > Western Nevada > Reno Area > River Rock > Main Wall

Description

This is the aid route (Deliverance on the Truckee A2, led by Aaron Silverman in 95) in the Falcon guide book, and a long standing top rope before that.

First crux is right at the second bolt, but is well protected. The main crux is at the bottom of the small seam. The crux is establishing your feet at the base of the seam.

Location

Just to the right of spring break. Start directly under the small tree on the ledge.

Protection

There are four bolts and chains at the top. Bring standard rack w/ small stuff as well.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Toping out on an onsight ascent.
[Hide Photo] Toping out on an onsight ascent.
Looking at the thin seam right after the crux.
[Hide Photo] Looking at the thin seam right after the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] Did Balkenbush lead the climb with the existing bolts or free it on TR? Jan 6, 2009
Brian Biega
[Hide Comment] Hi Everyone!

First time posting here.

Climbed Mr. Bigglesworth 5+ years ago. Onsight, no falls and no problem with the four bolts and additional gear placements. The climb was in the 5.11- range and was certainly a great addition to the already established climbs.

It's a pity that routes get retro bolted by climbers who don't have prior knowledge of the area and/or tradition. The challenge of working any additional gear only adds to the fun. This route resembles many of the Tahoe classics challenging the leader to place natural protection.

Adding additional bolts to existing routes changes the quality and adventure of the 1st ascent.

Brian Mar 17, 2009
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] The grade seems spot on to me. It just depends on your strengths. For example, I found Total Recall to be a bit harder. This climb is uber classic though and would be a much ballyhooed ***** classic in areas like Joshua Tree (similar climbing style). I just have to muster the requisite cajones to lead it now. It's that high first bolt with the requisite smeary moves and deck potential that keeps getting me. Nov 5, 2011
Patrick Cattell
Reno, NV
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Lead this after toproping twice and getting gear placements down. There's really only 2 spots to place gear your own gear, near the bottom and higher up on a very thin crack that takes small nuts and I was able to place a .1. Great route, very sustained .11, probably my new favorite at river rock. Just careful making a sketchy slabby mantle to the first spot to place cams about 10ft below the first bolt. Apr 15, 2018
Hugh Jaynus
Reno, NV
[Hide Comment] Lead this onsight/ground up today. I brought a bunch of gear but only placed a #2 and a .1. Rad route and felt like 11b. I little heady but the falls would probably be safe. Apr 16, 2023
Tyler Shopshire
Truckee, CA
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] FWIW, I thought this was harder than Total Recall but may have the wrong beta for the top. I ended up using brassies instead of the .1 Jun 4, 2023