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Routes in Ranger Station Rock

4U2DO2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Barbara Bush T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hercules T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Casket Funeral TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Owatafooliam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pegleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pirates Of The Carabiner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polly Wants A Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ranger Rendezvous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Scaried Treasure T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Swain In The Breeze T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swain Lake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Swain Song T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Swatchbuckler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wall of 10,000 Holds T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Swain 4/85
Page Views: 1,967 total, 18/month
Shared By: Isaac T. on Jan 4, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Found on the highly featured north west face of Ranger Station Rock on the far right side. The crux is getting to the base of the route as much scrambling and 4th classing is required to reach the large ledge below the route. The rock is unusually featured similar to swiss cheese which is fairly un-common for Joshua Tree. It's close proximity to a multitude of easy routes makes this a good destination for those looking for a day of fun away from the crowds with plenty of easier to moderate routes to play on.

Location

Look for the obvious swiss cheese wall up high on the far right side North West face of Ranger station rock about 100 feet right of Swain in the Breeze

Protection

There aren't any anchors at the top you have to build it yourself but there is a walk off to the south west.

Photos

Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
Comments on the approach:
In over 30 years of climbing in JT this was some of the hardest scrambling I've ever done. I was too scared to do the "ramp" approach and came in to the base of the route from the other direction. At one point I changed from approach shoes to climbing shoes for a little extra security. Very adventurous! Nov 6, 2013
Dave Kos
Temecula, CA
 
Dave Kos   Temecula, CA
 
The approach is more difficult than the climb, at least the way we did it. I couldn't find a way to the base that didn't have a few 5.3ish moves.

The actual climb is anywhere from maybe 5.7R to 5.0, depending on how direct you go at the start.

Once you are in the 10,000 holds, there are enough opportunities for protection.

This route is fun if you are looking for a technical hike or solo. As an actual pitch of "climbing," it's probably not worth the approach. Nov 6, 2013
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
I only counted 9,996 but maybe I missed a few. This thing is a really fun solo. Nov 23, 2011
Chris D
the couch
  5.2 R
Chris D   the couch
  5.2 R
This is one of those routes at Josh that half will love and the other half will cry about the approach because they have too much tunnel-vision to realize that the approach is part of the climb. This one especially. You scramble through the usual boulder field, then either climb the bottom of 5.6 Swain in the Breeze, 5.8 Ohwhatafooliam, or take a "ramp" to a small ledge with a "sunken garden." We went up Swain, and I don't know where the "ramp" is, but from the ledge, you scoot up a slot on the right to an eight foot chimney (easy) then over a couple more boulders to a huge ledge. There you are.

From there, there are many ways to the top (10,000?) some probably 4th class. Didn't see the downclimb mentioned in the description, so just downclimbed the route unroped. It really is a ladder of pockets and buckets. A fun little adventure. Apr 26, 2010