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Routes in Mormon Slab

Big Love S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Sandstone Balls S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 170 ft
FA: Brandon Thau, John Thau & Michael Hong, April 25,1993
Page Views: 2,063 total · 19/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 3, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1) Climb easy terrain to the first bolt about 30' up and then continue up the waterstreak using pebbles and cobbles past a distinct crux at the 7th bolt to finish on a large ledge with a small tree.

P2) Continue up past 5 more bolts and then run it out on easy terrain to a large ledge with another set of anchors. It's easy to combine both pitches into one but the first pitch is the best.

  • To descend make two single rope raps to the ground with a 60 meter rope. If doing just the first pitch a 60 meter rope will get you down to the 1st bolt from which it's an easy down-climb to reach the base of the route.

Location

The obvious waterstreak on the left side of the wall.

Protection

15 bolts, bolted anchors (bolts are all 3/8")

Photos

Have looked at these rocks for years. Finally made the 5 minute drive and 10 minute approach. Tried the first route, the 5.6x. Backed off, it was sketchy, loose and beyond runout. A fall could rip all the skin off, wear layers. Made our way to the wall over the ridge. Great size routes. Bolts were massively rusted and probably wouldn't be ideal to fall on. Climbing is chill with fun moves the whole way, cobbles are solid. Linked up p2 with a 70m, could be done with a 60m as that is the length of the link. Double 60m rappel. Listen for the trains. Jan 4, 2016
Chris Asencio
Hesperia, CA
 
Chris Asencio   Hesperia, CA
 
Very fun longer sport route, there are a few spinners so keep that in mind. Apr 21, 2015
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
All of the bolts on this route are currently 3/8" and solid. Nov 21, 2012