PRINT: Rock Climb NED (Nothing Except Dynamics), Eldorado Canyon State Park

NED (Nothing Except Dynamics)

5.12b PG13, Trad, 35 ft (11 m),

Avg: 3 from 5 votes
FA: FA: TR, Alan Carrier and Adam Grasowsky, 1978; 1st lead Charlie Fowler; 1st free-solo Bob Horan 1985
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Whale's Tail

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Located on the south-facing, west-side of the infamous Whales Tail Cave, this severely overhanging, gymnastc overhang involves a dynamic move to gain the central hold, which is then utilized by using a toe hook, then a swing out to the lip, which is then heel hooked and surmounted via a rolling forward thrust move from out under the lip. This popular route is mostly top roped, rarely lead, and has been free-soloed only once. It has a variety of variations to gain the summit including a strenuous, direct, static version.

Location

Located on the south facing, west-side of the infamous Whales Tail Cave.

Protection

Small stopper, RPs, and a fixed pin. Two bolt Belay, mostly used for top-roping.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bob Horan on first free solo ascent of NED, 1985. Photo: Scott Reynolds.

German invasion in the mid '80s.

BH barefootin on a lead of NED, circa 1981.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Manson
Superior, CO and Stanford, CA

Tried to onsight on lead the other day and backed off at lip of the roof, because I didn't want to find out if the pin would catch a fall. Ended up scrambling around to set a top rope and work the moves. Here's some BETA I learned:

Awesome route, super fun with really cool movement but a little spicy. I soloed up to the pod below the roof, where a small fixed nut resides that can be backed up with RPs and a bomber green c3. You have to pull a few powerful moves, then you can clip the scary pin, it's pretty far out and wobbles (held my weight, but I wouldn't want to fall on it). From the lip, you can place a great red c3, then pull the strenuous mantel. PG-13 if the pin holds, R/X if it doesn't. Excited to come back for it! Feb 25, 2019

Mark Rolofson

5.12b/c R

The fixed piton is 33 years old. Since the 1990s, I have felt this route should have 2 bolts. The climb is super gymnastic with a dynamic move followed by a toe hook to more wild, swinging moves. It has a funky finish with a rounded slick scoop for a handheld above the lip. I used to set up a toprope with gear placements (mostly stoppers) 6-8 feet above the bolt anchor. Be careful getting down to the anchor. Placing gear above it to safely downclimb is probably wise. I watched Bob Horan free solo it in 1985. It's pretty insane to free solo this climb. There is no reversing these moves. Nov 28, 2021