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Routes in Sabres of Paradise

Alex Patterson V5 6C
DIRT is a Four Letter Word V6- 7A
Fluffy Little Clouds V2 5+
Jack of Swords V8-9 7B+
Orb Short V4 6B
Orb, The V7 7A+
Problem A V1 5
Problem B V6 7A
Problem C V4 6B
Problem D V2 5+
Problem E V0 4
Problem F V1 5
Sabersonic V7 7A+
Sabres of Paradise V7 7A+
Stroking the Walrus V7-8 7B
Supersonic V8 7B
Youth V0 4
Type: Boulder, 8 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 324 total · 3/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 1, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start with your feet on the back wall and move up the blunt double aretes to the lip and jugs. It appears that you can work your way up with either hand to the lip, I went right, using a heal hook. No more than 3 hard moves to the jugs.

Location

Just left of the wedged block starting on 2 pockets at the lip of the overhang on the blunt arete feature.

Protection

Pads, there is a rock for your leg to land on and one for your head and both hit since you are horizontal.

Photos

Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
 
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
 
Holds are pretty bad. Tried going right hand up to the small sloping crimp. Didn't really figure out what to do from these. Maybe I'll try a right heel hook. One other climber was try a right toe hook in the back, it looked pretty good but he made no progress. Mar 12, 2016
The start for this line is a sit start at the two big, obvious pockets in the bottom left corner of the protruding face with your feet on the back wall. It's at least V7, if not a bit harder, from that start. Mar 12, 2015
RAZORsharp
Carlsbad CA
  V7-8
RAZORsharp   Carlsbad CA
  V7-8
Started on the pockets for Sabersonic, and worked up to the lip. It felt on par with v7. MUCH easier if you start at the lip jugs. Nov 25, 2013