Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tom Isaac, LB, Jeff Bowman
Page Views: 2,323 total · 19/month
Shared By: markguycan on Dec 31, 2008 with updates from Jeff Bowman
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

13 Opinions

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Awesome 1st pitch: face climb past a bolt to hand and fist crack in R facing corner 160ft- bolted anchor. P2 5.8 chimney, P3 short traverse R from top of chimney to bolted anchors. P4 traverse R then up diagonal choss-fest,poor pro. P5 traverse R and up to large ledge on East face of summit.


SW face


double set tcu's to #4 camalot,+ nuts.


flagstaff, AZ
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
possible, even recommended to climb and rap from the top of the first pitch; do subsequent pitches only if you want to bag the killer summit. Dec 31, 2008
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
Just want to add to keep a close eye out for the traverse at the end of P2. You can't see the belay bolts from where the traverse starts, and it's real easy to miss it. Jan 5, 2009
flagstaff, AZ
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
thanks Kole, we continued on up missing the bolts onto some run out face, decided that WAS NOT the way to go and down climbed to find the anchors. Feb 20, 2009
I remember when this was rated 5.9! It seems that it felt hard even as 5.10. It also seems that there was only one set of bolt anchors at the top of the second and somehow we had to do a terrifying rope stretching traverse to a manky tree belay on the third pitch. The old sheet metal bolt hangers on the rap/old aid route were pretty sweet though. Nov 3, 2009
roman d
Pasadena, CA
roman d   Pasadena, CA
The first pitch is awesome and burly - I felt the crux was mainly just endurance through strenuous cupped hands and fists. It would have been nice to save a #3 for the last bit before the anchors, but the climbing is much easier.

Also, I replaced the tat at the 1st anchor (Jan 2010) Jan 19, 2010
Tony Montana
Wilmer, BC
Tony Montana   Wilmer, BC
Pitch 1 is long and burly. Upper pitches were fun and definitely as good as many other summit routes. All anchors are bolted and in good condition. Three pitches to summit scramble. Pitch 2 up through stem crux, traverse right across little foot ledges after stem chimney. Pitch 3, avoid right leaning choss groove above terrace, it sucks big time, rather do an easy rope stretcher runnout traverse up and right to the large balcony slab and traverse around the corner about 40 feet to the clean left angling groove, climb up and traverse right again 20 feet to the bolted anchor/little tree on top of the Beckey route and the first rap off, may have to simulclimb a little if using a 60. Jan 6, 2013
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
Some gear beta for those who enjoy light packs: you can safely do this route with no #3 or #4 C4 camalots. Just bring triples of blue and purple TCUs to put in the convenient tips crack. Also if you can get solid fist jams through the crux you might be a gorilla. Pretty rough for 5.10 even. Jan 19, 2015
Robbie Brown
the road
Robbie Brown   the road
Whoever called this 5.9 should be shot! Feb 11, 2015
Flagstaff, Arizona
josh10   Flagstaff, Arizona
burly route. this route also has some good small to medium nut placements if you don't have small cams. Nov 26, 2015