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Routes in Wall of Confusion

American Sportsman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Damage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Calanque, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desert Pickle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fear and Loathing, III S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Makulu S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Promises in the Dark S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resin Rose T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Runaway, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sudden Impact S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Super Guide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 831 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Dec 30, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start up some slick-looking rock with good pockets to a high first clip below a huge, white horn. Pull on some excrement-encrusted, huge jugs past a couple more bolts on steepening terrain to a very positive jug between the fourth and fifth bolts. Cop an awkward rest here and follow the handrail on the left to a reachy clip for the fifth bolt. Finish through seriously excrement-encrusted terrain to shared anchors with the route to the right, "Super Guide".

This route gets two stars in the Handren guide but with mandatory usage of extremely fowl-smelling excrement-encrusted holds I can't be so generous with the stars. It's too bad because it is really fun climbing on great jugs but gagging heavily when I clipped the anchors was unpleasant.

Location

This route is up in a cave about 100' above and to the right of the Wall of Confusion. An easy scramble up the small gully just right of Fear and Loathing, III gets you up there. This route is the first one to the right of the obvious, steep, dirty-looking crack route "Resin Rose"

Protection

Five bolts to a two-bolt anchor with carabiners. A couple of quick links on this anchor would be helpful to straighten out the carabiners.

Photos

Points for "fowl-smelling". Very funny. Deduct points for misspelling Makalu, Handren's generic name for this one which refers to both a well-known (back when) brand of boot, as well as the fifth highest mountain in the world. Thus endeth storytime. Nov 23, 2011