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Routes in Wall of Confusion
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American Sportsman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Damage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Calanque, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Desert Pickle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fear and Loathing, III S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Makalu S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Promises in the Dark S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Resin Rose T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Runaway, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sudden Impact S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Super Guide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,100 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Dec 30, 2008 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Start up some slick-looking rock with good pockets to a high first clip below a huge, white horn. Pull on some excrement-encrusted, huge jugs past a couple more bolts on steepening terrain to a very positive jug between the fourth and fifth bolts. Cop an awkward rest here and follow the handrail on the left to a reachy clip for the fifth bolt. Finish through seriously excrement-encrusted terrain to shared anchors with the route to the right, "Super Guide".
This route gets two stars in the Handren guide but with mandatory usage of extremely fowl-smelling excrement-encrusted holds I can't be so generous with the stars. It's too bad because it is really fun climbing on great jugs but gagging heavily when I clipped the anchors was unpleasant.
This route gets two stars in the Handren guide but with mandatory usage of extremely fowl-smelling excrement-encrusted holds I can't be so generous with the stars. It's too bad because it is really fun climbing on great jugs but gagging heavily when I clipped the anchors was unpleasant.
Location
This route is up in a cave about 100' above and to the right of the Wall of Confusion. An easy scramble up the small gully just right of Fear and Loathing, III gets you up there. This route is the first one to the right of the obvious, steep, dirty-looking crack route "Resin Rose"
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