Wildest Dreams
5.12-,
Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.7 from 26
votes
FA: Chris Hensen, et al '06
Washington
> Central-W Casca…
> Skykomish Valley
> Index
> Upper Town Wall
> (d) Dana's Arch Area
Description
P1 (5.10): Start as for Golden Road or climb the flake more easily from the left. 6 or so bolts lead up a face to the right of Golden Road to a left facing corner (9+). Stem and jam the corner past thin gear (10+) at the top to a belay anchor on a ledge on the right.
P2 (5.11): A flake goes up left to a fin/shallow corner. Use some small cams and nuts between bolts 1 and 2. After about 4-5 more bolts, the fin ends and you face a thin seam/face-climbing crux. A few more face moves (protected by medium-sized gear) lead to a 5.10 mantel and comfy belay ledge.
P3 (5.12a or A1): Two bolts protect the beginning of a right-leaning, thin fingers/fingertip crack. Tiny cams (0,00 TCU, 0 C3, black and blue aliens) to finger size pieces protect the rest. At only 40 feet, this pitch is certainly sustained at the grade. Belay on a large ledge that forms part of the descent and traverse pitches on the original Davis-Holland route.
If aiding it's probably easy to just French-free the crux.
P4 (5.10): Two bolts protect face moves that lead to sustained, thought-provoking climbing in discontinuous cracks. The pitch is nearly 35 m, so if you want to lower off the chains or rap, make sure you have a 70-m rope (or a second rope).
A short face traverse and 4th-class climbing leads up to the top of the wall where you can quickly get to the trail.
Location
Starts in the same area as Golden Route via a two bolt slab or a 3rd/4th class flake traverse.
A single 70m will work for the whole climb and the descent. The final pitch is a full 35m so be careful when lowering the leader and be sure your rope is likewise a full 70m.
Protection
SR to 3" with extra in the tiny to finger size. Don't recall if you absolutely need doubles in the larger sizes. Some smaller nuts are useful for P1 and maybe P2 but I dunno if you absolutely need them.
Anchors are all fixed and equipped with rappel hardware.
[Hide Photo] Eric at the finishing jug on the long, sustained 4th pitch of Wildest Dreams.
[Hide Photo] Eric Hirst near the end of p4 on Wildest Dreams.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at p4 of Wildest Dreams. The route follows the crack system; first rightward, then leftward, then slightly rightward.
[Hide Photo] Eric Hirst after the crux on p2 of Wildest Dreams.
Redmond, WA
Parties often aid the third pitch to get to the ultra-classic 4th, but it is certainly worth it to do just the first one or two pitches.
You do not need a 70-m rope if you hike off, which is easy to do. From the end of the 4th pitch, the climbing to the top is relatively clean, solid, and easy. Oct 21, 2013
Specifics on the thin gear:
Best UTW route I've done yet as well. Possibly my favorite route at Index now. Oct 21, 2013
If you aid the 5.12b section, Wildest Dreams is only slightly more demanding than Davis Holland -> Lovin' Arms. Think of it as a 5.10+ trad route with a bit of bolted 5.11- thrown in for good measure. Then get on it.
No need for etriers on p3. The seam is less than vertical, and only lasts about 20-25 feet. One shoulder-length sling to stand in was plenty. Sep 30, 2014
I aided the 12 pitch and then toproped it a couple times to figure out gear placements/stances. I'll be back. Feels similar in difficulty to Iron-Horse.
I think a single set is plenty for yellow alien and larger, doubles in purple TCU and/or blue aliens for the 12 pitch. A gray TCU is nice too.
Our 70m rope was fine to rappel. Feb 2, 2015
Leavenworth, WA