[Hide Comment] Led this route the other day, and overall it was quite unenjoyable. The first crux at the beginning was the highlight and required some searching to find the proper move. After that comes a very uninspired midsection followed by what appears to be a very fun undercling move. However, after making the move up to the left of the undercling, there is no place to go as you are jammed under the large ceiling with no feet and no hands (and also quite a ways left of your last clip). So, you then have to climb the boring right edge of the small face up to the ceiling and final crux. The bolt placement on the final crux is somewhat sketchy as it is placed far out on the overhang, and the fall line is not well protected -- a fall will have you crashing down onto the not-quite-so-vertical slab where your last bolt is. However, the final move to the anchor can be made somewhat interesting with a heel hook and usage of the left edge to work your way up.

Another issue I had with this route was that it made a terrible TR route to play around on. After setting it up for a few friends, I found that if they peeled off the upper ceiling, they ended up spinning around the rope and had to be lowered to actually get back to the rock.

I also found the 10a rating to be misleading. The opening and final crux are more in the 10c/d range, while the middle is at its hardest a 9.

If this route were a person, I would not be friends with it. Oct 18, 2010

[Hide Comment] Pretty much what Justin said.

Pulling the first roof is a nice move, but feels somewhat contrived, because we went out right first before hand traversing back above the bolt to pull the roof.

We both went out right after the second bolt from the end. Going left to the slab under the roof was a nice move, but seemed like you don't have any feet. And we skipped the last bolt; it's in an unreachable location. Jun 23, 2011

[Hide Comment] The final bolt is useless and impossible to get to reach unless you're 7" tall. IF you can reach it, it's nowhere near a 10a move, much harder. Going right at the top puts you well above your last bolt and around the arete. You then need to reach way back to the left to clip the chains, also a very difficult move if you are short. Blowing this move is an ankle/face breaker for sure due to the slab/ledge below your last piece. Wouldn't recommend this route to anyone not tall or very confident on high 5.10.

I think the problem with the finish could be fixed by adding a bolt on the underside of the roof. This would make the fall much cleaner, and you wouldn't be forced to go to the right around the arete.

I think this might be my first bomb rating in Clear Creek lol. Aug 6, 2019

[Hide Comment] We cleaned that last bolt way out there before TRing, which helped a little bit if following/TRing, but idk.... I agree with the above. Lots of zig-zagging, falls at the two cruxes aren't great (3rd bolt pretty high), ended up going out right near the end, which I liked, but wouldn't climb this one again, unless recommending it to an unsuspecting friend who I wanna see struggle but hopefully not get hurt trying to warm up on this 10a. Oct 10, 2021

[Hide Comment] Oh my word, do not get sucked into even trying this route. Awful bolt placements on the third bolt and the final bolt, definitely not a 10a. I don't even know what to rate it, since I bailed it out at the top and traversed over to the anchors on the pitch to the right. Worst route I've done in Clear Creek. Aug 19, 2022