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Newest Industry

5.11a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 18 votes
FA: Greg Olsen, Max Dufford, Darryl Cramer
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lower Town Wall > (Cb) The Shield

Description

A really enjoyable slab climb located on The Shield, which is essentially the large slab on the upper left portion of the Lower Wall. Well-bolted slab climbing grows in difficulty until a distinct, thin crux section. After the crux, there is a much easier runout either right to an anchor on TPMV below its 10d mantle pitch or to a higher anchor via a dike and easy roof. Natural gear protects the dike and the moves over the roof. The crux of the route is infamous for being rather thin for the grade, especially during the warm season. Descend from the anchor above the roof or better yet continue to the anchor at the top of the TPMV/Japanese Gardens routes via 5.7-5.8 slab climbing for a full size pitch.

Location

The best approach is probably via Princely Ambitions (.9) and Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters (.10+). From the anchor at the top of the latter climb, scramble up and right across a grassy ledge to an anchor below the slab. Beware of loose debris on the ledge: anything that falls could easily land on someone below! One 70m rope will get you down the wall, with a variety of anchor choices available.

Protection

Bolts and gear to 1 inch. Bolted anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

andyf
Tacoma, WA
[Hide Comment] Husker Du, "Newest Industry," from Zen Arcade (1984)

Been through mass destruction once,
but once was not enough.
Said we want a second chance
and all they say is "Tough."
A world where science went too far,
there's no way to survive.
Why can't we get this thing straightened out,
I want to stay alive.

They burned and bombed the East and North,
and there's no place left to go.
The Sun Belt's overcrowded,
so let's annex Mexico.
The Peso's only worth a dime,
but they've got all that land.
No need for civil war,
we know they'll understand, right?

Is that how you like it?

Factories left unattended,
crumbling to the ground.
We tried to keep them running,
but there's no more oil around.
We used it all to fight a war
that neither side could win.
Vietnam is little league
compared to where we've been.

Now we live in caves and huts
and we don't have pay TV.
And everyone is signing up
for the newest industry.
Standard Oil goes solar power,
all try to make a buck.
So I'll sit and smoke cigarettes
and babble "What the F__k?" Jan 1, 2009
Gabe Shank
Index, WA
 
[Hide Comment] This is one of the hardest 11a Slab Climbs I have ever done. And I have climbed a lot of slab! I would put this around a 11b/c. The crux is at the 4th bolt.

The PG rating is for the top part of the climb, but its easy 5.8 slab climbing with "iffy" gear for 15 feet. Mar 25, 2013
andrew bogaard
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Definitely a very short, hard section that peeled off the toe from my shoes (I ended up frenching it). I dont think this warrants a PG13 rating May 23, 2016
Stig gles
Seattle
 
[Hide Comment] 11a hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha Sep 18, 2017
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Yeah this thing has been my "11a" project for a while. Great route with a very hard crux section. Sep 21, 2017
Yuval Boss
Leavenworth, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Sweet route! Starts pretty mellow and gradually gets harder through the bolted section. When the bolts run out and all you see is slab with no bolts or gear just trust in your rubber and head 15 ft up and right of the last bolt. Oct 7, 2019
Darryl Cramer
Seattle
[Hide Comment] When 5.10 first came out with stealth rubber Charles Cole was interviewed by a climbing mag and claimed that it worked best somewhere in the 30s. (degrees F) Trying this route in full summer sun is 100 times more difficult than at lower temps. Aug 21, 2020