Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Greg Olsen, Max Dufford, Darryl Cramer
Page Views: 1,628 total · 11/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A really enjoyable slab climb located on The Shield, which is essentially the large slab on the upper left portion of the Lower Wall. Well-bolted slab climbing grows in difficulty until a distinct, thin crux section. After the crux, there is a much easier runout either right to an anchor on TPMV below its 10d mantle pitch or to a higher anchor via a dike and easy roof. Natural gear protects the dike and the moves over the roof. The crux of the route is infamous for being rather thin for the grade, especially during the warm season. Descend from the anchor above the roof or better yet continue to the anchor at the top of the TPMV/Japanese Gardens routes via 5.7-5.8 slab climbing for a full size pitch.

Location

The best approach is probably via Princely Ambitions (.9) and Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters (.10+). From the anchor at the top of the latter climb, scramble up and right across a grassy ledge to an anchor below the slab. Beware of loose debris on the ledge: anything that falls could easily land on someone below! One 70m rope will get you down the wall, with a variety of anchor choices available.

Protection

Bolts and gear to 1 inch. Bolted anchors.

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