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Routes in The Shield

Beak Beak Beak T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Newest Industry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Greg Olsen, Max Dufford, Darryl Cramer
Page Views: 1,140 total · 10/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2018 Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper pitches of the Diamond Details

Description

A really enjoyable slab climb located on The Shield, which is essentially the large slab on the upper left portion of the Lower Wall. Increasingly difficult, well-bolted slab climbing leads to a relatively short and much easier runout to a dike. Natural gear protects the dike and the moves over the roof. The crux of the route is famous for being rather thin for the grade, especially during the warm season. Descend from the anchor above the roof or better yet continue to the anchor at the top of the TPMV/Japanese Gardens routes via 5.7-5.8 slab climbing for a full size pitch.

Location

The best approach is probably via Princely Ambitions (.9) and Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters (.10+). From the anchor at the top of the latter climb, scramble up and right across a grassy ledge to an anchor below the slab. Beware of loose debris on the ledge: anything that falls could easily land on someone below! One 70m rope will get you down the wall, with a variety of anchor choices available.

Protection

Bolts and gear to 1 inch. Bolted anchors.

Photos

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andyf
Tacoma, WA
andyf   Tacoma, WA
Husker Du, "Newest Industry," from Zen Arcade (1984)

Been through mass destruction once,
but once was not enough.
Said we want a second chance
and all they say is "Tough."
A world where science went too far,
there's no way to survive.
Why can't we get this thing straightened out,
I want to stay alive.

They burned and bombed the East and North,
and there's no place left to go.
The Sun Belt's overcrowded,
so let's annex Mexico.
The Peso's only worth a dime,
but they've got all that land.
No need for civil war,
we know they'll understand, right?

Is that how you like it?

Factories left unattended,
crumbling to the ground.
We tried to keep them running,
but there's no more oil around.
We used it all to fight a war
that neither side could win.
Vietnam is little league
compared to where we've been.

Now we live in caves and huts
and we don't have pay TV.
And everyone is signing up
for the newest industry.
Standard Oil goes solar power,
all try to make a buck.
So I'll sit and smoke cigarettes
and babble "What the F__k?" Jan 1, 2009
Gabe S
 
Gabe S  
 
This is one of the hardest 11a Slab Climbs I have ever done. And I have climbed a lot of slab! I would put this around a 11b/c. The crux is at the 4th bolt.

The PG rating is for the top part of the climb, but its easy 5.8 slab climbing with "iffy" gear for 15 feet. Mar 25, 2013
andrew bogaard
  5.11a/b
andrew bogaard  
  5.11a/b
Definitely a very short, hard section that peeled off the toe from my shoes (I ended up frenching it). I dont think this warrants a PG13 rating May 23, 2016
Stig .
Seattle
 
Stig .   Seattle
 
11a hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha Sep 18, 2017
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
 
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
 
Yeah this thing has been my "11a" project for a while. Great route with a very hard crux section. Sep 21, 2017

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