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Doug's Roof

5.11 V2, Boulder, 10 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 5 votes
FA: Doug Millen
Massachusetts > Cape Ann > Down Under

Description

If you like crack climbing so much that you have come to the realization that roof cracks are the ultimate, but you lament your roofcrackless life in the Commonwealth, take solace. Doug's Roof is here for you.

The problem begins on a juggy rail which you will traverse to the base of the crack. Suss your initial jam sequence, and head out into the horizontal realm. Feet on the rail will help get you started but, unless you're Wilt Chamberlain, won't get you through. As usual, the crux is turning the lip, and this move on Doug's certainly is demanding. A lockoff on your last roof jam leads into a desperate punch for a wide and insecure hand jam from which you must cut and raise your feet for the tenuous topout.

The beauty of Doug's Roof is that, for most mortals, this problem will start as a project but will eventually become something you visit to do training laps.

Location

Begin your approach as for Redrock, with the storage facility on your right. Just past the storage units bushwhack a bit to get on the aqueduct and its accompanying trail. DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE STORAGE FACILITY. This is private. They have cameras and have threatened climbers with trespassing charges. DO NOT ENDANGER OUR ACCESS merely for the sake of cutting off a few hundred yards of trees.

Here's where it gets tricky. Two hundred yards or so up the aqueduct trail there will be a very faint trail departing to the right, usually and hopefully still marked with a cairn. If you crest the hill on the aqueduct, you've gone too far. Keep with this trail for 1/2 mile or so. You will pass the behemoth, intimidating and otherwise unmistakable Kong Boulder. Keep heading up the hill to the right, making your way up trail-less terrain through several ledges of rock. Up there somewhere, with a few wrong turns no doubt, you will find Doug's Roof. Have fun.

Protection

A pad will do. Don't even really need a spotter.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Doug's Roof: Fun to climb.
[Hide Photo] Doug's Roof: Fun to climb.
Lovely, lovely jams.
[Hide Photo] Lovely, lovely jams.
Doug's Roof.
[Hide Photo] Doug's Roof.
Doug's Roof. Composed of several photos stitched together.
[Hide Photo] Doug's Roof. Composed of several photos stitched together.
Gorgeousness and gorgeosity made flesh.
[Hide Photo] Gorgeousness and gorgeosity made flesh.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bjorn
WNC
  5.11 V2
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the killer photo, Doug! Jul 7, 2009
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
 
[Hide Comment] FA: Doug Millen. May 12, 2012
erik kapec
prescott, az
[Hide Comment] Anyone have a slightly better description of getting to this gem? I've been looking for this boulder for a few weeks and can't find it. Thanks. Also looking for a partner to rope up with locally. Jan 18, 2013
[Hide Comment] This boulder is just at the far right end of the Down Under area. I think there is a pretty good description on the main page for Down Under.

Just head around the rear of the storage area until you hit obvious firebreak/path, then follow that up until you see a litte cairn off to your right (sort of across from where Oz is). Then follow a vague path up to your right and trend a little downhill until you get to the base of a little cliff band. Follow this band as it gets bigger and the climbs at Down Under will appear. Keep going until you get to Doug's Roof. Since the leaves are off the trees you should see the Vet's office. The cliff band of Down Under runs roughly parallel to 133.

With leaves down, it shouldn't be that bad. You could even bushwhack behind the storage area and over to behind the Vet's office. From the area behind the Vet's office, you should see Down Under. The Kong Boulder is back there too. Just down trespass on the storage area or Vet's office.

This might help too: mountainproject.com/v/10744…

Jim

Jan 18, 2013
erik kapec
prescott, az
[Hide Comment] Awesome, thanks! Looks like I got some exploring to do this weekend. It would be nice if my bouldering pad fit in my pocket. Feb 27, 2013
Bjorn
WNC
  5.11 V2
[Hide Comment] Really sorry to hear that, Jim.
But I guess I'm glad I know. I'm sure someone used the area as a shelter, for which I can hardly blame them. But still, I wish it had been someone who knew to shit in a cathole discretely removed from camp, not all over the roof.
If I were not in Joshua Tree these days, I would be there with water jugs, Dr. Bronners and scrub brushes to clean it up.
Next visit, I guess, I will have to go check it out. Oct 21, 2014
ZB 4yr
Watertown, Massachusetts
[Hide Comment] Someone smeared what appears to be lithium grease all over the bottom of down under and Doug's Roof....
Kinda a bummer as lithium grease keeps slick for a while. You can still do the roof section of Doug's Roof, but the rails underneath are covered. Will take some cleaning. May 13, 2017