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Routes in Arrowhead Cliff

One Little Indian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: [H. Barber?]
Page Views: 906 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closed Details

Description

This crack begins with awkward layback moves under a significant bulge. Reach around the bulge for a solid wide handjam and place a piece. Pull into the crack proper and continue on mainly hands for the first 10-15'. The crack narrows for the remainder of the route, fingers and thin hands, occasional face features for feet. The climbing gets very scrappy and demanding toward the top, jams are thin and flaring, occasional crimps on granite crystals may be better than jams, but feet may be crumbly at this point. Head quickly and positively for the wide hand/fist jam at the end. Place a final #3 Camalot and commit to the awkward friction mantle of the topout.

Protection

This takes cams and nuts very nicely. Bring a light SR up to #3 Camalot. The trees at the top can be slung and extended with long runners for anchors. No fixed hardware please -- keep it wild!

Photos

I'm pretty sure the FA was Henry Barber. Feb 17, 2009
Bjorn
WNC
  5.10+
Bjorn   WNC
  5.10+
You're right. And most likely an onsight solo. Feb 20, 2009
erik kapec
prescott, az
erik kapec   prescott, az
Is this near Brey Street? Apr 16, 2013
jim.dangle    
Quote: "Is this near Brey Street?"

Yes, in the same general area. Not sure what the access is like for this now though.

Jim May 18, 2013

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