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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,634 total, 15/month
Shared By: Davis13au on Dec 23, 2008
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description

First I didn't name it. Not sure where the name came from. This route is a more of a fun bouldering problem than anything else, though I wouldn't boulder it. The fall down the main face would suck. It's a short few moves at the top of the main face on the main overhang. The route is on the left hand side of the overhang and moves left to right and then up and over on to the top of the main wall. It's a great way to finish a multi pitch climb of the main wall.

Location

This route starts above the Overhang Approach route. It's on the left side of the main overhang which is in the middle of the main face. It starts kind of where the main overhang and the headwall area meet. It starts in that corner and then moves right and over. There is a small tree that might get in your way on the route.

Protection

There are no bolts but you could top rope it if you set it up on top and then rappelled down to the start. If you are coming up from the below you will need maybe a nut and a sling to protect the few moves up and over.

Photos

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Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
Either the above description is off or Dixie Craggers is off. But someone is wrong. We followed the topo/description (5.6 PG13) in Dixie Craggers and it went as follows:

P1: Start right of the balance climb cable following a crack. Climb up to the ledge with the cable. Clip the bolt on the cable if you want to avoid the PG13 rating, then head towards an obvious down facing flake for pro (you can see this from the ground). Get some gear in then step around up and right onto the face. Head straight up through ample gear. Gear belay wherever or continue up almost a full 60m to a corner at the 1st overhang where there is a ledge with a good gear belay.

P2: Fire the short corner (boulder problem?). I found the corner to be easier than it looked and you can avoid the dirtiness by staying out on the right edge. Belay from a tree. Rap down the cable route Sep 7, 2015
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.6
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.6
Thought this guy was well protected. Wander a bit to find the pro. Not really worth it considering the balance climbs next door. Jul 1, 2009