All Locations > International > North America > Mexico > Central Mexico > Peña de Bernal > South Face
El Lado Oscuro de la Luna
Avg: 2.8 from 9 votes
Routes in South Face
|El Lado Oscuro de la Luna S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Asuntos Exteriores T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Bernalina S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Filo Suroeste S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Horizonte de Estrellas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Servicio Exterior S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Via del Padre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Sport, 500 ft, Grade II|
|FA:||Alfredo Velázquez, R. Becerril|
|Page Views:||1,496 total, 14/month|
|Shared By:||Anthony Anagnostou on Dec 23, 2008|
|Admins:||Mauricio Herrera Cuadra|
DescriptionFun face climbing on great rock. A steeper angle than 'Bernalina' makes it feel more sporty, but it's still well under vertical, with more hand and footholds than you know what to do with. The mexican beta (xpmexico.com) claims 5.10a, which it may be, but i didn't think it was quite that burly. Other opinions would be greatly appreciated, as all my grades are only estimates. It might be even easier than 5.9, but im not comfortable downgrading the thing two grades.
Pitch 1. ~5.8 to anchors. (i estimate that all three first pitches are more than 30m, but are definitely not rope-stretchers)
Pitch 2. ~5.9 to anchors
Pitch 3. ~5.9 to anchors on shoulder with lots of bolts.
Pitch 4. diagonal left to join the 4th class pitch on bernalina (up a little ways on pitch 3 of bernalina as i describe it). continue up dirty 4th class ramp to ledge with anchors. see bernalina beta for rest of the (5.6ish) climbing.