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Routes in South Face

El Lado Oscuro de la Luna S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Asuntos Exteriores T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bernalina S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Filo Suroeste S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horizonte de Estrellas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Servicio Exterior S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via del Padre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 500 ft, Grade II
FA: Alfredo Velázquez, R. Becerril
Page Views: 1,496 total, 14/month
Shared By: Anthony Anagnostou on Dec 23, 2008 with updates
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Fun face climbing on great rock. A steeper angle than 'Bernalina' makes it feel more sporty, but it's still well under vertical, with more hand and footholds than you know what to do with. The mexican beta (xpmexico.com) claims 5.10a, which it may be, but i didn't think it was quite that burly. Other opinions would be greatly appreciated, as all my grades are only estimates. It might be even easier than 5.9, but im not comfortable downgrading the thing two grades.

Roughly:

Pitch 1. ~5.8 to anchors. (i estimate that all three first pitches are more than 30m, but are definitely not rope-stretchers)
Pitch 2. ~5.9 to anchors
Pitch 3. ~5.9 to anchors on shoulder with lots of bolts.
Pitch 4. diagonal left to join the 4th class pitch on bernalina (up a little ways on pitch 3 of bernalina as i describe it). continue up dirty 4th class ramp to ledge with anchors. see bernalina beta for rest of the (5.6ish) climbing.

Location

As far as I can tell, "El Lado Oscuro de la Luna" is the second bolted line up from where the trail meets the rock, one line to the right of "Bernalina".

Protection

Red hangers with 3/8" and occasionally 1/2" bolts. Tightly bolted near the ground, and becoming more spaced during the second and third pitches. 14 draws should be fine, and possibly less. SEE COMMENT BELOW. This may be a description of Via del Padre.

Photos

Gunkswest
CA
  5.9
Gunkswest   CA
  5.9
According to the March 2013 guidebook (page 411), the pink hangers/route described herein is actually the climb Via del Padre.

El Lado Oscuro de la Luna (the climb this page is supposed to be about) is the next climb to the right (uphill about eight feet) of the pink hangers (Via del Padre). As of 01-2015, the bolts on El Lado Oscuro de la Luna were predominantly old and rusty.

At least the first two pitches of El Lado Oscuro de la Luna (the climb this page is supposed to be about) can be rappelled with a single 60m rope. Jan 4, 2015