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KGB

5.7, Trad, TR, 75 ft,  Avg: 2.1 from 24 votes
FA: Dave Pagel
Minnesota > Tettegouche SP… > Palisade Head

Description

There are two cracks, the left being bigger. I took the right crack which seemed easier, but both are climbable.

The crack runs the length of the climb. Start climbing and continue up the crack/corner until you surmount a ledge about half way up. Then a nice crack to the top.

Location

If you are descending the Southern Escape Gully, KGB is the first major corner with a flake to the right. We went to the top of the climb and rapped, and would strongly recommend this.

Just to warn everyone, there is scree on top of the climb and gets quite annoying. Not so much dangerous, well it could be but if you where a helmet you should be good.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

placing some pro.
[Hide Photo] placing some pro.
"KGB" viewed from below
[Hide Photo] "KGB" viewed from below
Laura Machacek on "KGB" 5.7 at Palisade Head, MN.
[Hide Photo] Laura Machacek on "KGB" 5.7 at Palisade Head, MN.
sorry for the very bad quality because it's a picture of a video that I took. but it should help for locating the climb.
[Hide Photo] sorry for the very bad quality because it's a picture of a video that I took. but it should help for locating the climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sonnabend
West Saint Paul, MN
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This is a good moderate to set up a TR on. TR setup requires some long webbing to sling some trees and a medium sized hex for good measure/directional. Lots of gravel at the top so belayers should have a helmet on. I wouldn't top belay this one for that reason also. People that aren't into crack climbing will still be able to climb this route. Sep 28, 2009
J.Roatch
Leavenworth, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Led this today for the first time, pretty fun warm up with solid pro. Doesn't look like it gets climbed much though.

Description from Superior Climbs:
An excellent little corner about 50 ft right of the gully consisting of moderate crackwork on sound rock. The only detraction here is the steep loose slope above the climb; shifting top rope anchors or scrambling feet an send a shower of loose gravel onto anyone below. Mar 25, 2012
Dave Meyer
Ventura
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Be wary of the first ten feet of the climb which holds some very suspect blocks that could easily come undone when weighted. Aug 19, 2012