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Beyond the 80th Meridian
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British C2 R
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Routes in The Kachina Spires
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Beyond the 80th Meridian T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 R |
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Kachina Tower North T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Kachina Tower South T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Smith Maddrey and Wells Cambell |
| Page Views: | 1,358 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on Dec 23, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Permits are now required for climbing in Hell Roaring and Mineral Canyons. See section below for details.
Details
These canyons are important habitat for a variety of wildlife, including raptors such as the Mexican spotted owl, golden eagle and the only herd of native desert bighorn sheep in Utah. In response to a recent increase of recreational activity impacting wildlife habitat, the Moab BLM is implementing a rule to restrict aerial and roped activities in the Hell Roaring and Mineral canyons. The rule includes a permit requirement for all climbing below the canyon rims. The decision was reached after significant study, and environmental assessment including the consideration of public comments.
Mineral and Hell Roaring climbing permits must be obtained at least 48 hours in advance. Permit rules and seasons vary by location of the climb and are only available for the following towers: North and South Kachina, Witch, Warlock, and Cauldron Towers, and Gollum. The lower portion of both canyons is also included in the permitted locations. A map will be provided to the permit holder along with further stipulations upon issuance. The environmental analysis including a map of the entire restricted area can be viewed on:
eplanning.blm.gov/eplanning…
For more information or to obtain a permit contact the BLM Moab Field Office by email at blm_ut_mb_srp@blm.gov.
To read the decision record including the Environmental Assessment for the rule, visit the federal register.
federalregister.gov/documen…
Mineral and Hell Roaring climbing permits must be obtained at least 48 hours in advance. Permit rules and seasons vary by location of the climb and are only available for the following towers: North and South Kachina, Witch, Warlock, and Cauldron Towers, and Gollum. The lower portion of both canyons is also included in the permitted locations. A map will be provided to the permit holder along with further stipulations upon issuance. The environmental analysis including a map of the entire restricted area can be viewed on:
eplanning.blm.gov/eplanning…
For more information or to obtain a permit contact the BLM Moab Field Office by email at blm_ut_mb_srp@blm.gov.
To read the decision record including the Environmental Assessment for the rule, visit the federal register.
federalregister.gov/documen…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route begins on the down canyon side of the fin (not visible from the parking area) and climbs to the notch between the north and south towers. Since you will probably want to climb both towers, this description also includes a trip from the notch to the north tower which was first climbed by Paul and Andy Ross and the south tower which was first climbed by Paul Ross and Paul Gardner.
To get to this route, hike down canyon past the spires. Once past them, look for a slab on the left that gains a bench that will access to the base of the route. This slab is 150 meters to the right of the route.
Pitch 1 The original route climbs the left of two cracks located directly below the notch formed by the spires. It has a sporty start and currently requires pitons down low and a lot of small cams up high. We didnt have the right gear so we climbed the wide crack on the right which wasnt too bad. There is some soft rock at the beginning but it gets better up higher. Both options end at a fixed anchor on a ledge. This rating is for the right crack. (5.8, C1+)
Pitch 2 Climb the obvious corner above the belay on questionably rock past a death flake and on to the notch. This pitch is a little spooky. (5.7 C2)
Pitch 3 (to the South Tower) This pitch is currently a highball boulder problem on questionable rock with poor protection and bad fall potential. However, there are two empty holes in this face. After talking with Paul Ross I learned that the FA team had used removable bolts on this lead. Since no one carries removable bolts, it would seem prudent for the next team to carry a couple pins and fix them in the holes. (bring a hand drill in case the holes arent deep enough) After the face, continue up another short section to a giant ledge. (5.10a R)
Pitch 4 - Move the belay to the east side of the South Tower next to a giant flake that forms a squeeze chimney. This ledge system is loose and exposed in places. (Class 4)
Pitch 5 Shimmy behind the flake into the squeeze chimney and continue to another huge ledge. This chimney is small. If youre a big person, you probably wont make it. I had to remove my helmet and harness and tie the rope around my ankle just to get into it. (5.5)
Pitch 6 Climb the bolt ladder to the summit. You could combine the last two pitches if you haul up the right gear after the squeeze and watch for rope drag.(C1)
Reverse and rap the route to the notch. If youre finished climbing, continue rapping the route.
Pitch 7 (to the North Tower) Step across the gap and climb past several bolts that lead to a ledge with a 1 bolt anchor. This is a short but fun pitch. Adding another bolt to this anchor would be a good idea. (5.7)
Scramble clockwise around the North Tower to the opposite side and the start of the final pitch.
Pitch 8 Clip the first bolt and continue with a mix of aid and free climbing to the summit. This is an engaging pitch for the grade. (5.8, C1)
Rap to the base of the North Tower, reverse the scramble and rap from the single bolt back to the notch.
To get to this route, hike down canyon past the spires. Once past them, look for a slab on the left that gains a bench that will access to the base of the route. This slab is 150 meters to the right of the route.
Pitch 1 The original route climbs the left of two cracks located directly below the notch formed by the spires. It has a sporty start and currently requires pitons down low and a lot of small cams up high. We didnt have the right gear so we climbed the wide crack on the right which wasnt too bad. There is some soft rock at the beginning but it gets better up higher. Both options end at a fixed anchor on a ledge. This rating is for the right crack. (5.8, C1+)
Pitch 2 Climb the obvious corner above the belay on questionably rock past a death flake and on to the notch. This pitch is a little spooky. (5.7 C2)
Pitch 3 (to the South Tower) This pitch is currently a highball boulder problem on questionable rock with poor protection and bad fall potential. However, there are two empty holes in this face. After talking with Paul Ross I learned that the FA team had used removable bolts on this lead. Since no one carries removable bolts, it would seem prudent for the next team to carry a couple pins and fix them in the holes. (bring a hand drill in case the holes arent deep enough) After the face, continue up another short section to a giant ledge. (5.10a R)
Pitch 4 - Move the belay to the east side of the South Tower next to a giant flake that forms a squeeze chimney. This ledge system is loose and exposed in places. (Class 4)
Pitch 5 Shimmy behind the flake into the squeeze chimney and continue to another huge ledge. This chimney is small. If youre a big person, you probably wont make it. I had to remove my helmet and harness and tie the rope around my ankle just to get into it. (5.5)
Pitch 6 Climb the bolt ladder to the summit. You could combine the last two pitches if you haul up the right gear after the squeeze and watch for rope drag.(C1)
Reverse and rap the route to the notch. If youre finished climbing, continue rapping the route.
Pitch 7 (to the North Tower) Step across the gap and climb past several bolts that lead to a ledge with a 1 bolt anchor. This is a short but fun pitch. Adding another bolt to this anchor would be a good idea. (5.7)
Scramble clockwise around the North Tower to the opposite side and the start of the final pitch.
Pitch 8 Clip the first bolt and continue with a mix of aid and free climbing to the summit. This is an engaging pitch for the grade. (5.8, C1)
Rap to the base of the North Tower, reverse the scramble and rap from the single bolt back to the notch.
Protection
-Standard desert rack to #3.5 Camalot and a few tie-offs.
-Bring a hand drill and some pitons to fill the holes on pitch 3.
-Bring a bolt to add to the anchor at the top of pitch 7.
-If you're climbing the left crack on pitch one you will need some extra tiny cams and maybe some pins.
-If you're climbing the right crack on pitch one, bring a couple big cams.
-Bring a hand drill and some pitons to fill the holes on pitch 3.
-Bring a bolt to add to the anchor at the top of pitch 7.
-If you're climbing the left crack on pitch one you will need some extra tiny cams and maybe some pins.
-If you're climbing the right crack on pitch one, bring a couple big cams.
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