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Routes in The Anvil Boulders

1. V2-3 5+
2. V1 5
3. V-easy 3
Alien Baby Left V5-6 6C+
Alien Baby Right V9 7C
Bear Claw Rocketeer V1 5
Big Sexy V10 7C+
Black Tide V2 5+ PG13
Campus Problem V4-5 6B+
Chill start V-easy 3
Cornerless Baggie V4-5 6B+
Crack Factory V6 7A
Dirty Diamonds V5+ 6C+ PG13
Free Willy V6 7A
Hard Jams High Pulls V4 6B
Keyhole V1 5
Kurt's Traverse V3 6A
Lazer Cut V3 6A
Loads of Fun V4 6B PG13
Mars Attacks V9 7C
Nopinyon Arete V3 6A
O.B.E. (Out of Body Experience) V4 6B
Pinch of Sugar V5 6C
Pocket Problem V1 5
Poopship Destroyer V7 7A+
Rip Tide V2 5+
Sai Baba and the Lord of the Flies V5 6C PG13
Shootin For Pulleys V3 6A
Slip n' Slide V4 6B
Sloper Traverse V5+ 6C+
Stems And Seeds V4-5 6B+
Tall Crack V0+ 4+
Warm Up Slab V1 5
We Live Here V5-6 6C+
Wordman V1 5 PG13
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Matt Hoch
Page Views: 3,247 total, 30/month
Shared By: Andrew Ryder on Dec 22, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

This is the left (and original) version of Alien Baby. Start with good jams in the block and fire to the flat triangular sloper. Crank left to a nice crimp and go big for the lip. Fantastic rock and great moves.

Location

On the first humongous boulder at the Anvils, this is on the backside.

Protection

Pads and a spot, the landing is not all that great.

Photos

Andrew Ryder
Arizony
 
Andrew Ryder   Arizony
 
For the record, most people start at the fingerlocks in the crack. The SDS adds a couple moves but no real difficulty. Jul 23, 2011
Jason Kevin
Munds Park, AZ
Jason Kevin   Munds Park, AZ
This route starts sitting down! Low left hand with a matching heel hook. Slap up then reach for the huge jug that's about shoulder height. After reaching the diagonal crimp to the right, heel tight where your left hand holds you on. A side pull awaits at your left, then ride your way straight up. I find using a right heel next on the top out helps with the crank over. Jul 21, 2011
Colin Cox  
 
Alien Baby "left" is the original Alien Baby, not a variation(and in my opinion the best problem at the Anvils). "Right" variation was contrived later. Matt Hoch got the F.A. of both lines in 99'or 2000. Dec 12, 2010