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East Face
5.10d,
Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.7 from 9
votes
FA: Wertkin and Putelis - 2006
Washington
> Northwest Region
> Darrington & Mt…
> Glacier Peak Wi…
> Gunsight Range
> Middle Peak
Description
This route follows a hidden line, which unfolds piece by piece with amazing climbing and perfectly clean rock. Usually done in 6-7 pitches. After a short warmup section, the climbing is in the 5.90-5.10+ range the whole time.
Location
From on the Blue Glacier, look up at the face (very foreshortened from this angle). You should be able to see twin hand cracks and a flake (almost right-facing). These form the start to pitch 2.
[Hide Comment] First off this route might just have the best rock in the entire range. While the W Face of N Gunsight might be harder and have more of a history the rock quality simply does not compare.
The crux pitches (p2-p5) on this climb are remarkably similar to the Godzilla-Sloe Children linkup at Index in quality, length and difficulty. Just add a crushing two day approach to some of the most remote peaks in the Lower 48.
I'm not one to link pitches at all. I like to stop as soon as possible, but the description above makes for some very short pitches. p2 & p3 are easily combined as are p3 & p4 resulting in two ~45m pitches with great belay ledges.
May 1, 2009
[Hide Comment] Just climbed this route to within 50 ft of the summit only to get blown off in the storm.
We accessed the route from the moat at the base of the notch between Middle and South Gunsight. One traversing pitch leads to the base of the twin cracks. Turn the outside corner at the base of the moat, traverse climber's right 30-40 ft, head up a corner, and then traverse again. This allows the climbing party to leave their gear at the base without having to carry over.
Great route, but there is a very large detached flake on the pitch 6 traverse that will someday come off. Above the 10d crux and crack, its probably best to keep going up and then right until you can see the low angle slab of pitch 6 to belay - this will keep you out of the line of fire. Be aware. Aug 30, 2011
[Hide Comment] Definetly agree with Darin on the pitch linking. Link pitch 3 and 4 and skip a poor belay stance. Just save a #1 for the crux.
Jul 30, 2013
Avg: 3.7 from 9
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The crux pitches (p2-p5) on this climb are remarkably similar to the Godzilla-Sloe Children linkup at Index in quality, length and difficulty. Just add a crushing two day approach to some of the most remote peaks in the Lower 48.
I'm not one to link pitches at all. I like to stop as soon as possible, but the description above makes for some very short pitches. p2 & p3 are easily combined as are p3 & p4 resulting in two ~45m pitches with great belay ledges. May 1, 2009
Boulder, CO
We accessed the route from the moat at the base of the notch between Middle and South Gunsight. One traversing pitch leads to the base of the twin cracks. Turn the outside corner at the base of the moat, traverse climber's right 30-40 ft, head up a corner, and then traverse again. This allows the climbing party to leave their gear at the base without having to carry over.
Great route, but there is a very large detached flake on the pitch 6 traverse that will someday come off. Above the 10d crux and crack, its probably best to keep going up and then right until you can see the low angle slab of pitch 6 to belay - this will keep you out of the line of fire. Be aware.
Aug 30, 2011
Seattle, WA