Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
Routes in North Peak
|West Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||1986 - Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich|
|Page Views:||375 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||blakeherrington on Dec 19, 2008|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionFirst Ascent by Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich in 1986 at 5.10 A2, The route went 20 years before a repeat, and 21 years later (2007) saw it's FFA by Max Hasson and Jens Holsten, 5.11+
Pitch 1 - Rated 5.7 by the first ascentonists, this pitch is more like 5.9 or 5.10a, with less than obvious gear. Climb up a pillar, cracks, flakes, and occasional knobs, generally straight up. A belay can be made at ~40m on a small (think one foot) stance.
Pitch 2 - The crux pitch. Follow thin cracks and knobs to the left of the large corner, overcome a small roof (5.11+) and belay in cracks above, at the base of an orange flake.
Pitch 3 - Up cracks on the right side of the flake, that gradually widen from 1/2" to 3" - 5.10
Pitch 4 - Up the obvious widening crack above, occasional face holds help when most needed. 5.10++. Belay will be at a small ledge, the first real stance encountered on the route.
Pitch 5 - Straight up the dark corner above, fun stemming and face holds lead to a mantle onto the summit terrace. 5.8
This is one of the best routes in the Cascades.