Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1986 - Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich
Page Views: 811 total · 6/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


First Ascent by Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich in 1986 at 5.10 A2, The route went 20 years before a repeat, and 21 years later (2007) saw it's FFA by Max Hasson and Jens Holsten, 5.11+

Pitch 1 - Rated 5.7 by the first ascentonists, this pitch is more like 5.9 or 5.10a, with less than obvious gear. Climb up a pillar, cracks, flakes, and occasional knobs, generally straight up. A belay can be made at ~40m on a small (think one foot) stance.

Pitch 2 - The crux pitch. Follow thin cracks and knobs to the left of the large corner, overcome a small roof (5.11+) and belay in cracks above, at the base of an orange flake.

Pitch 3 - Up cracks on the right side of the flake, that gradually widen from 1/2" to 3" - 5.10

Pitch 4 - Up the obvious widening crack above, occasional face holds help when most needed. 5.10++. Belay will be at a small ledge, the first real stance encountered on the route.

Pitch 5 - Straight up the dark corner above, fun stemming and face holds lead to a mantle onto the summit terrace. 5.8

This is one of the best routes in the Cascades.


From the left (north) edge of the face, traverse right on a narrow ledge to a small cairn near where the ledge divides. Begin beneath a long, thin, left-facing corner which is roughly 200' up.


A full rack, including doubles of mid-sized cams and a 4-5" Cam. Offset nuts and small cams are helpful, especially if aiding the crux roof.
This is the biggest 500' wall I've ever climbed. With a fair bit of dangling this route can be climbed at mid-5.10 C2ish. The start is not obvious, look for the V-shaped roof as show in the photo titled P1 above.

You can leave all your crap at the base of the climb. Then to descend, from below the summit blocks do two double rope rappels down the north ridge, then two more double rope rappels down the west face to reach the big ledge at the base of the route. Great anchors, clean rock, easy pulls. Just what you want after a long taxing day. May 1, 2009
whoa! Apr 23, 2010
Lance Colley
Seattle, WA
Lance Colley   Seattle, WA
My girlfriend and I just climbed this route! What an amazing route in a super alpine location. If you want a real adventure, this is it. This route and range deserves much more attention so were hoping some notes on the route will get people back there;

To find the start of the route; you should notice an awesome access ledge starting on the lower left side of the wall and rising to the right across the face. Scramble up to the ledge on the left and traverse it right to where it almost peters out, look up and you will see the beautiful white granite face with cracks and black chicken heads(left of big white corner with tiny crack in it). The corner system of P3 and P4 is obvious above this. Also at the top of the wall a giant horn is obvious, sticking out from the wall, this feature seems to disappear as you get higher.

P1, we followed the line of least resistance aiming for the white face. This pitch begins with balancy climbing on knobs and some thin gear then good cracks to a decent stance. At the stance a horn on the right has some old tat on it but you can use nuts and medium cams for a more convenient belay. Almost exactly 30m (5.9+)

P2, climb thin and flaring cracks on slab, some stemming opportunities, small tricky gear, but enough to keep climbing, a 0.2 BD x4 placement was crucial for me. Traverse slab a few steps left and then up to best looking cracks in the bulge. Take a minute to soak up the exposure!! Good feet/rest out left just before crux. A key 0.75 BD cam pod protects the crux move. Knobs for feet and hands are crucial! Climb up through crux before next decent gear opportunity. So Pumpy! I belayed awkwardly just below a comfy ledge which had no gear:( This belay took some tiny cams/nuts and a #2 (5.11+)30m

P3, Its far from over. A cruxy boulder problem on knobs and flaring cracks (tricky gear) gets you off the ledge into more hard to protect flaring cracks. Finally an undercling move right on crazy orange and yellow rock gets you to an awesome steep hand crack. If you have a light rack, run it out to a huge chicken head. You can stand on the chicken head for a sorta comfy belay. Belay takes big cams. (5.10+ or 5.11-) 25m

P4 you are in the corner system now, keep going up it. This pitch is steep and burly, laybacking, stemming and offwidth moves. Most wide cracks can be protected with smaller gear. Finally an awkward mantle gets you on to a small slab with a finger crack above. We traversed right here to a great belay ledge just below the summit. (5.10+) 45m

P5 stem and tiptoe on loose and grainy rock following path of least resistance and mantle directly on to flat terrace just below true summit. (5.8) 20m

Access summit by heading right (south) on the terrace to an obvious chimney feature. Easy climbing gets you to the summit

Descent: With 1 60m rope, we made 1 rap and did some down climbing south from the summit to the nearest notch. At the notch we rapped west, twice off horns into the gully, the second rap we veered climbers right onto the west face of the Main/middle peak. We then down climbed 100 feet and rapped off another slung horn into a giant corner feature climbers right. There is a big ledge in the corner feature with a giant boulder that looks like a sinking ship, we slung this and rapped to a another convenient ledge just above the Chikimin glacier. Traverse this ledge climbers right to a big cave(good place to put on boots for the snow). A big boulder with tat around it is obvious, rap here to glacier, ninja moves and tarzan swinging with axe get you across moat to Chikimin. This last rap and most of the route is very exposed to rock fall, be fast! Overall this seems like a good alternative to traversing Middle peak/finishing the gunrunner traverse if you and tired and not stoked on leading more pitches of rock. Aug 9, 2016
Doug Hutchinson
Seattle, WA
Doug Hutchinson   Seattle, WA
Amazing climb. Lance's beta is spot on. We brought double C4s 0.3 to #2, a single #3 and #4 and that was enough big gear (but I didn't find the wide sections on P4 too bad). BD X4 offsets 0.1/0.2 and 0.2/0.3 were very useful protecting the slab cracks below the crux on P2 and DMM offset nuts are always useful. I felt the initial 5M of P3 was 11- and the psychological crux of the route because the gear was sparse and one would hit a small ledge in a fall. A yellow alien (about a C4 0.3?) in a crack out right protected this section but larger offset cams (than what we had, probably more like 0.3/0.4) would be have been better. We did one 50M rap down the N ridge and three more raps down the west face north of the route. Left slings for the two lower anchors since I could not locate any. Everything you need to know:
stephabegg.com/home/triprep… Aug 7, 2018