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Routes in Pitted Rock

Cockpit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gash, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gay Germans, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hurricane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overpowered By Hootch TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pit Slut, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pitfall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dave Bengston, 1991
Page Views: 356 total, 3/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux on this route comes right off the first bolt, but the whole route is strenuous until you join The Gash (.10a) at the end. It is possible to enter the crack earlier or later, but I'm not sure it changes the overall difficulty much.

Location

This is the 4 bolt route on the east side of the rock, around the corner from Pitfall.

Getting down is a little treacherous; it looks like it may be possible to climb up and over the top where Betty Gravel is and descend, but it is also possible to descend via a crack/chimney past the Pitfall face. The latter option is filled with kitty litter and is not recommended. I can't remember if the Pitfall anchor is accessible or not; it may have been that I didn't have any spare webbing to replace the ancient sunbleached tat that exists up there currently. In any case use caution with any option.

Protection

4 bolts. A piece of gear at the start (small cam, not very good) protects getting to and clipping the first bolt and is probably a good idea. An optional cam can be placed in the finishing crack if desired. No fixed anchors on top; natural gear to 3 inches and slings are needed to build a toprope anchor.

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Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
This climb is very cool, but most will probably find the 5.12a rating in the book to be a bit of a sandbag. My suspicion is that this is one of those 5.12- Joshua Tree sport climbs that has gotten a bit harder over the years; I believe a large hold may have broken that both made the climb easier and made it easier and safer to clip the first bolt, based on visible rock scars. As it stands, .12c would not be an outlandish assessment of the grade. Lots of fun. Dec 19, 2008