Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Dave Bengston, 1991
Page Views: 783 total · 5/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The crux on this route comes right off the first bolt, but the whole route is strenuous until you join The Gash (.10a) at the end. It is possible to enter the crack earlier or later, but I'm not sure it changes the overall difficulty much.

Location

This is the 4 bolt route on the east side of the rock, around the corner from Pitfall.

Getting down is a little treacherous; it looks like it may be possible to climb up and over the top where Betty Gravel is and descend, but it is also possible to descend via a crack/chimney past the Pitfall face. The latter option is filled with kitty litter and is not recommended. I can't remember if the Pitfall anchor is accessible or not; it may have been that I didn't have any spare webbing to replace the ancient sunbleached tat that exists up there currently. In any case use caution with any option.

Protection

4 bolts. A piece of gear at the start (small cam, not very good) protects getting to and clipping the first bolt and is probably a good idea. An optional cam can be placed in the finishing crack if desired. No fixed anchors on top; natural gear to 3 inches and slings are needed to build a toprope anchor.

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