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Routes in Smoke and Mirrors Boulder

Novocain Stain V0 4
Smoke and Mirrors V6- 7A
Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,563 total, 14/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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35 Opinions

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Description

Sit start in the "cave" with both hands left of the arete on crimps but with big feet. (There is also a really small crimp just right of the arete proper that I normally use because I feel it puts my body in position better.) Pull off the ground to match on the large slopey shelf. From here power up the arete using holds on either side of the arete. To obvious top out holds on the right side of the arete.

Foot work and sequence is key to sending this route. The kemple guide has it listed as only climbing the left side of the arete, however that is very contrived and making use of both sides of the arete flows better and still sustains the grade of V6.

Location

This problem is situated just right and back of the Pound Crack Boulder. If you stand at The Blot and turn around you will see this problem, looks intense.

On the map on the Pound main page this is located on the "Smoke and Mirrors Boulder" (If you couldnt guess...)

Protection

Pads and spotter.

Photos

Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
One of the coolest boulder problems I've ever done, highly recommended. Mar 18, 2015
Zane Dordai  
 
I used the little crimper for my right hand that is described and the better crimp (out of the two seriously chalked low things) in my left and did a big move left hand to the slopers to start. that felt like the coolest, lowest, and most natural start to me. the arete holds on the right side are so cool!! great texture. sent in crazy humidity; the rock is so grippy you don't need good temps, just good skin...and get it on your first few burns! One of the best in the pound. Aug 20, 2012
JamieRe
Providence, RI
JamieRe   Providence, RI
Tried it out this past weekend. Temps/humidity were awful but the problem was cool. Hopefully I'll have better luck in some cooler weather. Aug 6, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
INdeed it does start on the two crimps below the big sloper... ill fix it sorry about that

Edit: I rewrote the full description to better represent the route. Jun 13, 2012
Luke W.
Prescott
  V5
Luke W.   Prescott
  V5
The "more natural" start uses the two crimps below the slopers. Jun 13, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Thanks Lee Nov 25, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
NICE WORK MATT!!! Nov 24, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
This route is super classic, finally sent it today, it wasnt the prettiest thing to watch but it dont matter to me! First V6! Nov 24, 2009