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Shanghai

5.12c/d, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 27 votes
FA: Chris martin, 2000
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Mur… > Dark Side

Description

One of the classic routes of the grade, Shanghai ascends an intimidating wave of bullet sandstone. The route begins with an awkward scramble up the unfortunate ramp. Begin a bit left of the bolt line with a long reach (and a long draw) to clip the second bolt. Match the big hold & cut your feet to get established on the wall. Enduro jugs lead to a cool undercling move to a horn, then more jugs to an obvious blank section visible from the ground. A series of big crux moves, with a bigger pump leads to a strenuous clip at the anchor.

Location

On the left end of the Dark Side cave, this route is the second route from the left, beginning from the big ramp. Next route right of Mama Benson.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Clip another 2-3 bolts on the ramp traverse.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paul climbing Shanghai (the line directly left of the second water streak).
[Hide Photo] Paul climbing Shanghai (the line directly left of the second water streak).
Shanghai is the second route from the left, beginning from the big ramp.
[Hide Photo] Shanghai is the second route from the left, beginning from the big ramp.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
 
[Hide Comment] I found that when you first arrive at the anchors it is strenuous to clip but if you move a bit further you wil be rewarded. Nov 7, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Dude, you just blew everyone's onsight with that key piece of beta! Shh! Nov 12, 2009
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
5.12c
[Hide Comment] This is not an indictment on the venerable user that entered this route, but the current consensus is 12c for Shanghai. Mar 3, 2011
Eric Carlos
Soddy Daisy, TN
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] It is 12d in all three guidebooks. It is probably low in the grade, but much harder than most 12c's at the red. Aug 18, 2012