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Shanghai
5.12c/d,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 27
votes
FA: Chris martin, 2000
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Pendergrass-Mur…
> Dark Side
Description
One of the classic routes of the grade, Shanghai ascends an intimidating wave of bullet sandstone. The route begins with an awkward scramble up the unfortunate ramp. Begin a bit left of the bolt line with a long reach (and a long draw) to clip the second bolt. Match the big hold & cut your feet to get established on the wall. Enduro jugs lead to a cool undercling move to a horn, then more jugs to an obvious blank section visible from the ground. A series of big crux moves, with a bigger pump leads to a strenuous clip at the anchor.
Location
On the left end of the Dark Side cave, this route is the second route from the left, beginning from the big ramp. Next route right of Mama Benson.
Protection
6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Clip another 2-3 bolts on the ramp traverse.
[Hide Photo] Paul climbing Shanghai (the line directly left of the second water streak).
[Hide Photo] Shanghai is the second route from the left, beginning from the big ramp.
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