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Routes in South Peak

Accidental Discharge (East face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unknown, first reported 2006
Page Views: 1,835 total · 16/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Dec 18, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description


South Ridge

Climb either of two clean corners to the ridge crest, and then move right on chickenheads and good face features (5.7). The next pitch features a memorable traverse (5.8) across the gapping cannonhole, a feature which appeared sometime in the 1980s or 1990s. The final lead is a low fifth class.
FA unknown, this route was climbed twice in the summer of 2006, the second party reported finding webbing on route.

Location

This route begins at one of two obvious dihedrals on the west side of the ridge, and to the south of the peak. These corners can be approached from Blue Lake, and lead to the ridge crest in half a pitch. One 35M rappel northward from the summit, then rappel east to the glacier.

Protection

Small Alpine Rack

Photos

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