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Routes in Tarryall Tower

Tarryall Tower Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Witters-Yeatts Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Witters and Dick Yeatts, 1967
Page Views: 1,154 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 18, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the original route to the technical summit of Tarryall Tower; probably the easiest way to the top. The biggest pitons available in 1967 were 1/2" ring angles so the hand crack crux had to be done as a long run-out.

Dick went up first and tried the left of a pair of cracks. It was too rotten, so Bob led through, and jammed the right hand crack with little protection. up the right crack. One of the photos shows Dick Yeatts belaying in the left crack and Bob Witters starting up his lead to the top.

Location

This route does not climb out of the notch. It starts down a bit left, in the shade.

Protection

Bob mentioned that the crack was too wide for the pitons he had, very run out jamming. Today's gear might make this route much safer and probably doable in one long lead.

Photos

This comment relates to to Witters - Yeatts 1st ascent of Tarryall Tower.The photos are credited to Bob Witters, who would have had to use a drone to get them. He is in the right crack leading to final pitch to the summit, and drones didn't exist in 1967. All the photos including that attributed to Mr. Kennedy are mine, Loraine Yeatts. We backpacked to the site the previous day before they accomplished the climb. We revisited Lost Creek a few days ago and are thankful the area has been preserved as wilderness for its unique scenery, dense stands of aspen, and many rare plant species. All of us are now older than 80 and savor memories of amazing aspen color and an exhilarating climb done with antique equipment, in blue jeans and clumsy leather boots. Sep 28, 2017
Be advised: after the initial hand crack section, this route widens into an offwidth for much of its length. The only protection I had that would fit was my #5 purple Camalot; I was wishing I had about three or four more of those. Found the summit log at the top; thanks to whoever put it up there. Rappelled using the rap station on the west side. It was an epic climb in an epic area. Aug 29, 2016
I climbed this route yesterday with Will McDonald, great fun, good route, and pretty good rock. We encountered some cat claw on the first, little mini-pitch that we did, but great, clean cracks above that. It gets a little wide 3/4 of the way up, and I was stoked Will was leading. I hope will will post some pictures soon, one very old fixed ring pin on the route (FA probably) we did a single rap off 2 bolts on the west side just right of the bolted arete. Sep 15, 2010