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Routes in East Face/Chimney Rock

Eye of the Tiger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lord Greystroke T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tsumani T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
UNI T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dane Burns and Jay Koopsen
Page Views: 856 total, 8/month
Shared By: Dane on Dec 17, 2008
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Start up the Cooper/Hiser but take a right asap and climb up a bit of thin crack to a hanging belay below the wide crack and obvious roof. Climb up through the roof on hands and stemming (the crux) and finish the tips crack on the headwall and then climb right into Free Friends. Instead of traversing right when possible finish by the PG13 last pitch up the crack to its end finishing with face climbing and the mantels through the over laps.


Full rack from small TCUs to a 4".


I am curious, I am writing a novel, one of my characters is planning a climb up Chimney Rock, I was hoping someone could give me better, laymens terms for what I need to know. My character will be parking and hiking in to the climb, how long will that take? And what are the routes for the east side climb? Is Greystroke one of them? I would like to use that one. How long can I anticipate the climb to take for my character? Thanks so much, obviously being a writer, climbing isn't my thing, but I need to have a better understanding of it for this story to come to life. Jan 3, 2010