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Routes in Roadside Cragging

Dirt in Yer' Eye T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Terror Dreams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+
Yo Hammer, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft
FA: James Garrett & Tyler Phillips 06'
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Dec 16, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start on the west face below obvious left facing dihedral. Shorter folks will have to nail to the first fixed pin, from fixed pin nail up to 1-2” crack, aid up this to a bolt, make a difficult mantel on the summit.

Location

Take the onion creek turn off. Count 9 stream crossings. This tower is on your left, in a small amphitheatre, behind a “No Camping” sign. The route faces west, a fixed pin marks the start.

Protection

(2) #2 angles (1) beak, camalots up to #2 with a few small TCU’s

Photos

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Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
I replaced the pin that was missing before the first bolt. I placed an angle in the hole that is bomber. For now. Feb 18, 2015
Paul S
Fruita, CO
Paul S   Fruita, CO
This is a quick mini dose of excitement. Micro cams allow this to go clean pretty easily if you can make a gigantic reach off the ground to clip the first fixed piece. As I was transitioning from a drilled piton to a bolt the piton popped out! This felt a bit more heads up than A1/C1 to me. Getting to the first bolt was exciting as the pro is in a fairly thin flake and now with the junk piton gone, you'll either need to do a hook move or possibly improve the hole and fill it with a piton or bolt. Aug 16, 2014