Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ron Anderson/Ron Petty
Page Views: 714 total · 6/month
Shared By: Rick D on Dec 9, 2008
Admins: Justin .

You & This Route


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Description

Head up crack formed by wall and roof. There is a crack that tops out and the crux is near the top. Walk off.

Location

On the Right Side of Iron Butte. No Stick Um on the left, Local Crow Motion on the right. No Stick Um climbs up the left side of the big roof, This climb goes up the right side.

Protection

Pro to 2.5".

Photos

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Ron Anderson
  5.11a
Ron Anderson  
  5.11a
no comments on this line?? Its the test piece for the crag! Has it all -moves, jams, strength plus "heady" for the leader. A LARGE piece broke off when doing an early ascent under the roof which made that part much easier, but 11 A is fair for the onsight... Anchors are a pain (unless someone added bolts) but do-able. It wasnt really done for top roping benefit though,,sorry..its a lead-follow and top out sort of 'thang'. Jun 18, 2011
BruceB
Reno, NV
 
BruceB   Reno, NV
 
Fun climb, but I guess I took the easy way. The way I did it was 9+/10a.

I didn't go directly under the roof, because it's covered in bird shit, the initial rock quality is not so great, and the natural line trends to the right up some blocks. And it was fun that way. It still leads to the finger crack and then the hand crack that is so appealing from the ground.
The description says the crux is up high, so I didn't think I was missing out on the crux either. But, while the finger and hand crack are certainly fun on great quality rock, they barely crack 5.9 (no pun intended).

So yeah, fun climb, but I guess next time I'm going to have to suffer the bird shit and crappy looking rock to get directly under the roof to get the 5.10+.

But if you want a fun, well protected, 5.9/10a jaunt to the top, stay to the right until level with the roof, then follow the cracks.

I didn't see any bolted anchors. The walk off is easy and quick (3rd class, no 4th class). Nov 14, 2015