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Routes in The Moose's Butte

Moose's Butte Regular Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pope's Dick T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Skyline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: J. Burcham/ C.Tatum '06
Page Views: 1,852 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chris Tatum on Dec 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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14 Opinions

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Description

This route follows a great line up an amazing feature. The climbing is relatively straight forward and is pretty clean. This is the obvious thin crack system you see when standing at the saddle with Queen Victoria to your back. The route has a little bit of everything from Sedona mud to a splitter finger crack system. Eric Meudt and ? originally tried to reach this finger crack system via the horrible mud chimney directly below and once they hit the top of the chimney, headed way right. Hats off to those guys for that attempt! That chimney looks gross!

P1: Start up the gulley to the left in a chossy crack system. There is a little tree half way up the pitch. Pass a bolt station above the limestone band (rappel) and continue to the top of the small mud tower and a two bolt belay. 5.9
P2: Face climb passed 4 bolts, trending right, to the fun finger crack system that goes through 2 small roofs. Finish at a nice stance with a two bolt belay. You can leave your second rope here. 5.10
P3: Head up and right passed a few bolts to easier ground and end at a 2 bolt belay. 5.7
P4: Continue up easy ground to a couple moves protected by a bolt. Finish on top at a 2 bolt belay. 5.6

Descent: 4 rappels.
Rap 1: 90'
Rap 2: 90'
Rap 3: 150' (pass the mud tower belay to a lower station on top of the limestone band)
Rap 4: 110'? to the ground.

Location

Same approach as Queen Victoria. When you reach the saddle, head right. Look for the obvious thin crack system. The route starts to the right up a small gulley. Look for the small tree located halfway up the first pitch... this is how you know you are in the correct crack system.

Protection

Bring doubles up to a #2 camalot and a single #3 and #4 camalot
Bring extra fingers.
Some climbers recommend bringing nuts.
2x 60m ropes.

Photos

Bennett
Southern California
Bennett   Southern California
climbed most of the first two pitches yesterday. Pitch two now has a #3 camalot i bailed off of just below the roof, early Christmas present for someone. I have lead other 5.10 pitches in Sedona that are much easier... Watch for rope drag over the big roof--from here it appears to be runout about 20 feet to a bolt and the feature you are using, a flake-ear to move past the roof takes gear but isn't solid. Maybe add a bolt here 10 feet after the roof? It may make sense to move your anchor to the top of the big pillar where there are two bolts for pitch two, 30 feet up from the first pitch anchor/rap to lessen rope drag and so you can see the leader. Amazing pitch but maybe should get an R rating. Dec 13, 2008
Chris Tatum
Flagstaff, AZ
5.10+
Chris Tatum   Flagstaff, AZ
5.10+
Oh no!!! Bummer. There is actually good gear after that roof. You just have to peek around the flake to the left. Bomber nuts and small cams. Once you get the bolt there is good gear above to get you to the anchors. Spicy move stepping right to the anchor ledge! Good go at it! Lets get that #3 back to Bennett! Dec 13, 2008
Dean Hoffman  
 
ahh the infamous runout on pitch two. I found myself on this section with no nuts a few years ago and some small cams, however they were the wrong small cams. I had to place them as passive pro and equalized before I tiptoed up to the lonely bolt up there. Way fun, I did end up bailing from the anchor up there due to the impending monsoon on the horizon. Good climbing though! Jan 12, 2009
Steve Skelton
Lyttelton, New Zealand
  5.10c
Steve Skelton   Lyttelton, New Zealand
  5.10c
On Pitch 2 I remember missing a few bolts. I seem to remember tending right to the crack instead of following the bolt line. It goes! No need for bolts on this one but my second had a great time on the slab. Awesome Climb and if you think its run out, good! We need a little spice. Feb 19, 2009
"We need a little spice."

Well.... You've come to the right place.
If you want more than a little spice,
go repeat Pointed Dome and be in awe of what
was being done in the '50s in god only knows what kinda shoe.
The second wasn't until the late '70s by Ross Hardwick and after that,
no one else wanted to brave the route.

I think I've heard of some of the "newer" hardmen repeating it, but don't know for sure.

Or do the original route on Moose's Butte and for added spice,
don't clip the bolt added on the 3rd ascent on the third pitch. Feb 19, 2009
Steve Skelton
Lyttelton, New Zealand
  5.10c
Steve Skelton   Lyttelton, New Zealand
  5.10c
Just did Skyline again. I didn't say anything and my partner skipped the 4th bolt too, traversing in after the third. We like the first three bolts so I’ll retrieve my last comment about this route not needing any bolts.
Pitches three and four can be run together in a rope stretching sprint if you use really long slings!
I have your cam Bennett. If you want it it's in Prescott, but I need a number three...
Thanks for the beta Paul, I’ve done Moose’s Butte and it is spicy, even with that bolt! Technicolor is a bit headier though, I think. Pointed Dome can go, and should soon. You want to lead it? Mar 12, 2009
bio
mesa, az
bio   mesa, az
Stellar line. The rock quality is good, even P1 is quite solid and the limestone band crack is sweet. The second pitch has some continuous hard moves, seemed more like 5.11 to me as the second. May 23, 2011
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
google map image May 26, 2011
ericm  
I have wanted to do this route and on our first attempt we underestimated the cold and were frozen off the route. We bailed from the top of pitch 1- This was the second time I was on top of this pinnacle. The first was about 2001 when Bryan Smith, John Cral and I were going after the corner crack system to the right. We climbed the right side of the pinnacle to the top in 2 pitches and then began a long traverse right which ended up being more loose than we wanted to deal with- Bryan left a bolt out there and we retreated from the top of the pinnacle from old slings- Someone had already been to the top at least once. I am unsure by which route they took. We sort of called our little endeavor the Buttered Moose and went home.

Sincerely,
Eric Meudt Jun 28, 2011
Nick Dolhyj 1
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
Nick Dolhyj 1   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
definitely glad i brought stoppers for the last move before the bolt at the top of p2. cool route, crux pitch definitely gave me a little bit of a spook after the crack peters out. still managed to get the onsight though Apr 19, 2015
SummitSender
  5.11-
SummitSender  
  5.11-
Great Route! Second pitch is Awesome!!! Along with a few finger pieces Bring 2-3 red c3's or blue metolious tips pieces! the Crux is smaller that .3 and you'll need the .3 pods for your fingers... Apr 15, 2016

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