Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: J. Burcham/ C.Tatum '06
Page Views: 1,979 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chris Tatum on Dec 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

This route follows a great line up an amazing feature. The climbing is relatively straight forward and is pretty clean. This is the obvious thin crack system you see when standing at the saddle with Queen Victoria to your back. The route has a little bit of everything from Sedona mud to a splitter finger crack system. Eric Meudt and ? originally tried to reach this finger crack system via the horrible mud chimney directly below and once they hit the top of the chimney, headed way right. Hats off to those guys for that attempt! That chimney looks gross!

P1: Start up the gulley to the left in a chossy crack system. There is a little tree half way up the pitch. Pass a bolt station above the limestone band (rappel) and continue to the top of the small mud tower and a two bolt belay. 5.9
P2: Face climb passed 4 bolts, trending right, to the fun finger crack system that goes through 2 small roofs. Finish at a nice stance with a two bolt belay. You can leave your second rope here. 5.10
P3: Head up and right passed a few bolts to easier ground and end at a 2 bolt belay. 5.7
P4: Continue up easy ground to a couple moves protected by a bolt. Finish on top at a 2 bolt belay. 5.6

Descent: 4 rappels.
Rap 1: 90'
Rap 2: 90'
Rap 3: 150' (pass the mud tower belay to a lower station on top of the limestone band)
Rap 4: 110'? to the ground.

Location

Same approach as Queen Victoria. When you reach the saddle, head right. Look for the obvious thin crack system. The route starts to the right up a small gulley. Look for the small tree located halfway up the first pitch... this is how you know you are in the correct crack system.

Protection

Bring doubles up to a #2 camalot and a single #3 and #4 camalot
Bring extra fingers.
Some climbers recommend bringing nuts.
2x 60m ropes.

Photos