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Routes in Mont Pinacle Ice

Le Gringalet WI4 PG13
Type: Ice, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jean -Francois Denis et Serge Roy, 1977
Page Views: 2,346 total, 21/month
Shared By: Chris Hillios on Dec 8, 2008 with updates
Admins: Luc-514

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Description

The Ultra classic "Le Gringalet" known for "The Hand" on the 3rd pitch which is formed by updrafts coming up the right wall. In many seasons you can climb behind this formation to clear the final pitch.

P1: Climb the short pitch to the ledge on the right ~30m and belay on a tree that is slung for rappel. (In early season you may be climbing more rock than Ice).
(alternate: a ledge 50 feet up has 2 Glue-ins located about 25' to the left on the ledge - may be useful if the route is crowded).

P2: head up the corner and climb ~35m to a ledge on the right with a single Piton and a bomber bolt, just below the hand.

P3: This is the money pitch. Climb either under or around the hand. There is a fork here and you can either (a) head up and right to a fixed rappel anchor on a tree (a short rockwall 4m high in the forest leads to the trail above). or (b) continue straight (left fork) up over the next bush and up the dry direct route to the trail.

Descent

If you approached on the Mont Pinacle trail, it is much easier to walk off from the viewpoint trail that is above the climb. It is signed with red circles and is all downhill to the road. If you approached across the lake, you might prefer to rappel (using double ropes) if there is no one on the route below you.

Location

Mont Pinacle is on the eastern shore of Lac Lyster near Coaticook.

If the lake is frozen, you can park across the lake from the climb, and walk across the lake - this usually means you'll want to do the rappel descent, which is not a good option when there are other parties on the route.

A better approach is to use the standard Mont Pinacle hiking trails, and the maintained hiker access trails for the rock routes. It is well signed and leads directly to the base of the climb in about 25 minutes. The parking for the trails is in front of the fire station and depanneur where Chemin May meets Chemin Allard near Lac Lyster. Google maps) Follow the Mont Pinacle Sentier signs up the road 100m to the trailhead, then follow the main trail 10min until a well-signed climber's trail breaks off right down towards the lake and cliffs.

There is no public parking at the end of Chemin Allard, which would be the closest point to the cliffs.

Protection

Ice screws (stubbies included!) and ROCK GEAR (From med. nuts to a #1 Cam). There are many fixed pitons on the route.
Phil Schuld
Holderness, NH
 
Phil Schuld   Holderness, NH
 
An essential route in the northeastern winter climbing experience! I could be overenthusiastic about this one, but I think Le Gringalet absolutely measures up to more well known classics like the Black Dike or Repentance. Oct 25, 2017