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Summit Route
5.10a,
Sport, 30 ft (9 m),
Avg: 1.9 from 14
votes
FA: Chris Hawn ?
California
> San Francisco B…
> S Bay Area
> Castle Rock Area
> Mt Doom
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Description
A short little route. Start off a large separate boulder onto the formation. Move up and clip a couple of bolts and then try to pull the crux on , what else , sloping holds. It may be harder than 5.10a if you chose not to use the big hole out left of the route.
Location
The first route you encounter after coming down the access trail. This is the east face. There are three bolts and two with no hangers. From the top you can easily set up a TR for the slab route or for the west face route.
Protection
Well Bolted despite missing hangers
Morrison, CO
A slightly hard lead climb up the Summit Route on three nice bolts with hangers and then had our choice of four nice bolts and hangers to rig a top rope for the easier Slab route on the other side.
Some older rusty bolts on top and above the cave on the Summit Route side - avoid them. Nov 2, 2018
San Jose, CA
I top roped it twice but had trouble right below the 3rd bolted hanger where you have one great foothold to stand on but no good handholds above. I stretched my left leg to stand in the corner of the little cave on the left then I cheated once to step up, allowing me to grab the hueco above with my right hand then top out so I could set and clean the other anchors. Two better climbers in my group were both able to lead this route fairly easily without cheating.
There is a nice bolted anchor on the sloping ledge at the top. We set a short quad anchor for TR with a little rope drag over the ledge but not too bad. A more extended anchor would have avoided the rope drag. The anchor had quick links but no rap rings, so I added fat, forged Omega Pacific aluminum rap rings with an additional quick link on each side, because the existing quick links' opening couldn't fit either the OP rap rings or my Fixe stainless steel rap rings. Nov 25, 2019
San Jose, CA