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Summit Route

5.10a, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 14 votes
FA: Chris Hawn ?
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Mt Doom
Warning Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. DetailsDrop down

Description

A short little route. Start off a large separate boulder onto the formation. Move up and clip a couple of bolts and then try to pull the crux on , what else , sloping holds. It may be harder than 5.10a if you chose not to use the big hole out left of the route.

Location

The first route you encounter after coming down the access trail. This is the east face. There are three bolts and two with no hangers. From the top you can easily set up a TR for the slab route or for the west face route.

Protection

Well Bolted despite missing hangers

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leading the summit route on Mt. Doom
[Hide Photo] Leading the summit route on Mt. Doom
Milo after leading his first climb.
[Hide Photo] Milo after leading his first climb.
Summit Route , Mt. Doom
[Hide Photo] Summit Route , Mt. Doom

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Dentry
Morrison, CO
[Hide Comment] After a false start last week (couldn't find the trail up to Mt. Doom from the Saratoga Gap Trail) we tried again and easily found it by coming down from the Goat Rock Overlook.

A slightly hard lead climb up the Summit Route on three nice bolts with hangers and then had our choice of four nice bolts and hangers to rig a top rope for the easier Slab route on the other side.

Some older rusty bolts on top and above the cave on the Summit Route side - avoid them. Nov 2, 2018
John F Kim
San Jose, CA
[Hide Comment] Went there yesterday (Nov 2019). I could just clip the first bolt by stemming between the starting boulder and the wall, but shorter people will need a clip stick. If you fall from above the 1st bolt before clipping the 2nd, you'll probably drop safely into the slot between the boulder and face, but if you push away from the face you could hit the boulder behind you.

I top roped it twice but had trouble right below the 3rd bolted hanger where you have one great foothold to stand on but no good handholds above. I stretched my left leg to stand in the corner of the little cave on the left then I cheated once to step up, allowing me to grab the hueco above with my right hand then top out so I could set and clean the other anchors. Two better climbers in my group were both able to lead this route fairly easily without cheating.

There is a nice bolted anchor on the sloping ledge at the top. We set a short quad anchor for TR with a little rope drag over the ledge but not too bad. A more extended anchor would have avoided the rope drag. The anchor had quick links but no rap rings, so I added fat, forged Omega Pacific aluminum rap rings with an additional quick link on each side, because the existing quick links' opening couldn't fit either the OP rap rings or my Fixe stainless steel rap rings. Nov 25, 2019
John F Kim
San Jose, CA
[Hide Comment] More fun if you start down at the bottom of the slot, possibly on lead but definitely on top rope. Or clip first bolt then start at bottom of slot. Crux is right after clipping 3rd bolt. Anchors have rappel rings. Jun 6, 2022