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Routes in The Twilight Zone

Chaser, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Execution S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freedom Fries S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mind and the Matter, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shadow Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Eric Schmeer (12/08)
Page Views: 4,161 total · 36/month
Shared By: AOSR on Dec 7, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

"You unlock this door with the key of imagination. Beyond it is another dimension - ... a dimension of mind."

Climb a short slab past one bolt to the base of the roof. Move right through two bolts to the crux and ascend the dihedral. Step right onto the prow, move up and left using unique holds. Traverse left and face climb the left side of the large roof.

Location

First route on the leftmost roof system. Just left of Freedom Fries.

Protection

12 bolts and some change for the 2 bolt anchor. Use long slings on the 8th and 9th bolts to minimize drag.

Photos

Matt Bolt
Lakewood
 
Matt Bolt   Lakewood
 
Very fun climb. Route finding seem to be the demise of my onsight attempt. Can't wait to get back and tick off the rest the routes here. Apr 15, 2009
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
  5.11
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
  5.11
The upper headwall was very tricky for me. Seems to be essential to traverse low then get on the arete ASAP. Jun 8, 2009
Adam Keifenheim
  5.11a PG13
Adam Keifenheim  
  5.11a PG13
I hate to complain about a route, and Kirk has made amazing contributions to Clear Creek, and I appreciate anybody taking the time and money and effort to develop new rock in the canyon, but the wandering nature of this route isn't necessary. After the overhanging section, the bolt line could have gone more direct and skipped the two slab traverses (which would also reduce the massive rope drag and made for more consistent climbing). The upper arete is forced as there is a 5.3 dihedral within reach. The route is also very fractured, and we had a lot of rockfall. Jul 11, 2015
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a/b
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a/b
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAaaaaa... The smarmality continues!

So? Yeah...DOOO bring a few runners with you on this one; the line does wander quite a bit for just a handful of bolts. Also, my partner yesterday (Aug. 2, 2015) yanked off a chunk of mountain about the size of a prenatal horse. So be extra careful on these lines and wear plate armor....

Still, the line is probably worth doin'--if just the once. Aug 3, 2015
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11b
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11b
Would give it 3 stars, except subtract one for rock quality and subtract one for awkward finish. Sep 25, 2017
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
 
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
 
What a blast! The wandering nature of this route manages to capture several great cruxes. Perfectly protected, perfect line. Runners are helpful. Hero roof down low, committing face traverse. Thanks, Kirk! Oct 22, 2017

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