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Routes in The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle

A Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boondoggle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Byrd Pinnacle Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feather S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Friar, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J + J Groove T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lemon Bomb T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Zinger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trim T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
V Formation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whoosh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrangler Hero? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xyphoid Fever T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Xyphoid Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Joe Herbst, John Byrd, Matt McMackin, Nanouk Borche
Page Views: 1,488 total · 13/month
Shared By: Andrew Carson on Dec 7, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is the attractive set of double cracks on the left side of the formation, leading up through varnished rock to a crack slanting up and right to the finish. Rated 7+ in Handren's guide, we'd kick it up to a solid 8 but you decide. Very good pitch.

Location

Byrd Pinnacle is down and right of Red Zinger, across the gully from the Friar and easy to spot as one walks into the mouth of Oak Creek. The striking off-width crack through the roof right of this route, named Xyphoid Fever, is a good landmark.

Protection

Good pro readily available. As per Handren's suggested rack.

Photos

Just did this route yesterday. Great time, but one of the bolted anchors atop the pinnacle was missing. The rappel now consists of one bolt with chain, and two faded runners with fixed knots and rings. Nov 9, 2009
great route for the winter time. gets sun all day. no crowds. Feb 2, 2011
Nardo  
The anchor is still just one bolt and old Slings. The slings are tied into a knot and jammed into a crack. Oh...and has anyone gone up the chimney for the second half of the climb?? Jan 20, 2012
Ben Townsend  
 
Replaced the jammed-knot backup on the top anchor with fresh cord around the block, plus a screw link. Apr 4, 2014
I went up the chimney. It's well protected with a 2 or a 3, but the pinnacle-side wall of the chimney has lots of very hollow flakes that might get pulled off. Nov 3, 2014

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