[Hide Comment] As was pointed out, the bolts stop about 2/3 the way up. Bring a few smaller nuts (1/2" ish), or run it out. I think the 5.7 rating assumes you use the arete, in addition to face holds. Mar 13, 2009

[Hide Comment] The arete isn't worth it. The crack that's out on the face, though, is. You definitely want gear (to 1" if I remember) if you plan on leaving the safety of the ~5.4 arete. Jun 5, 2009

[Hide Comment] "Meh" was my reaction to this climb. Its okay, but there's much better stuff here. Jun 12, 2011

[Hide Comment] Pro to 1". Mike Carville had asked me to retro bolt this route years ago to make it a "sport friendly" route but I declined as this is a trad route with a bolted face start. The route leads to the crack system and I can't bring myself to place bolts by a crack. The 5.7 line follows the bolts to the crack finish. The 5.4 variation climbs the bolts to the run out arete. The arete is a variation of this route and both paths are commonly done. This route receives a lot of traffic as a warm up route, waiting for other lines to open up and as a TR for beginners.

Route was put up ground up much to my belayers dismay. The route took weeks of cleaning to make it safe as the granite is in a decomposing state. Originally the route had open cold shuts at the top which have since worn out and were then replaced with bolts anchors. May 23, 2018

[Hide Comment] Boy, I'm glad to see this is a 5.7 on here. It's rated 5.6 in the guidebook, but I climbed it today, and I'd say it's a stout ish 5.7 depending on the variation you choose.

Anyway it's a fun climb. Good for a new trad leader like me. Sep 21, 2019