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Africa Flake

5.10c, Trad,  Avg: 2.6 from 43 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Western Nevada > Reno Area > River Rock > Main Wall

Description

WARNING: This is the old rating before the Africa Flake broke off... Alot harder now and height dependent. 

That being said, can be a really fun climb. The crux now is getting to the first bolt without the flake. If you are under 5'11", you might want to start on Karls crack, put a few pieces in, and traverse right over to the second bolt. Make some good, slight overhanging moves. Get to good ledge and traverse right. Make hard unprotected moves up crack (Bring Trad). Finish on chains.

Location

Just to the right of Karls crack.

Protection

Gear to 2", 4 bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Old Custer testing the Cape of Good Hope on Africa Flake (5.10a)
[Hide Photo] Old Custer testing the Cape of Good Hope on Africa Flake (5.10a)
Reinhold Hardman working the flake on a 25 degree winter morning
[Hide Photo] Reinhold Hardman working the flake on a 25 degree winter morning

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I'd definitely recommend a single rack from fingers up to 1" on this. There's a cruxy section right before the third bolt and a fall would be a grounder without additional protection. If you're into that, cool, but fair warning.

This is a quality climb with some very testy moves for the given grade. Apr 17, 2011
Josh C
Somewhere out West
 
[Hide Comment] I'm 6 foot and have no problem reaching the flake. My wife is 5'6'' and that is the crux for her. Half the time she makes it, the other half . . . no dice. Jun 12, 2011
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This is no longer a 10a, and a lot of the climbing is rather bold for the grade. The first crux is 10-15ft up with the first bolt above your head, and then a mix of tenuous trad/bolt-protected climbing follows. A lot of fun and worth it. Make sure you bring a rack of smaller pieces (< #1) as this would be rather run out with no gear. Nov 13, 2016
Kyle Broxterman
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] The first bolt is WAY too high, leaving the very tenuous mantle move unprotected. I found that placing a #2 cam in the horizontal crack would help protect this move. I am 6' 2" so reaching the flake was not really an issue, but my shorter buddy was having trouble. Moving up through the flake was fun and engaging, feet are good you just need to get them up. After the second bolt, it is pretty run out so bring gear. I placed a nut in the slot after the second bolt, which ripped out after I finished the climb and bounce tested it. (Poor rock quality) so be careful. The rest of the climb is a bit wandery but easier than anything below it. Apr 24, 2022