The Secret Sharer
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Routes in Forests of Azure
|Secret Sharer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Type:||Sport, 40 ft|
|FA:||Please, comment or email me if you know!|
|Page Views:||394 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Trout on Dec 4, 2008|
|Admins:||Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff|
DescriptionTo quote Paul Piana: "Outstanding! One of the finest Hueco climbs." Before we had bolted caves in abundance, there was The Secret Sharer. Not really a cave, but that steep with a line of huecos and then fingerbuckets at the top. Most of today's caves are not the caliber of rock found on The Secret Sharer.
LocationI imagine that this is now easy to find because a volunteer guide is required. After crossing the dam, stay at pit level for about 1/4 mile, until past the huge Pit Roof and around a boulder. Then head into the rocks. This route is not much above pit level.
ProtectionFour bolts up to a double bolt anchor. The protection bolts are old and have to catch real falls. Good risk managment might be to dog it into familiarity and then do it in headpoint/the-leader-never-falls style. I thought getting a top-rope on it was not practical. The Secret Sharer is so steep that even top-rope sessions need the protection bolts to dampen the harsh swing. So the bolts get yarded on weather you dog/flash or TR.
I can think of no other route I'd rather replace the bolts on. This fall a ranger commented about how trusting Hueco's bolts seemed crazyish. So I asked him if I could replace some this winter, thinking of Secret Sharer. He said Austin was working on a system for bolting.
The old beta was a #8 hex in a hole to protect getting to the first bolt...that's the "r" part. A Camalot would probably work much better. The third bolt is a hairy clip, better hold above. Bring the stick-clip too.
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