Lion's Chair
5.11a R,
Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 27
votes
FA: Phil Dean 1968
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (g) Morning Glory Wall
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
I only climbed the 11a first pitch, but pitches 3, 4, and 5 I have climbed when doing 'Zebra Zion.' The first pitch is fairly long and gives a good leg pump, but there are plenty of good shakes. The moves that are in the 10c section and which the book says makes a great climb on its own are the hardest. High-stepping is very beneficial. That said, if you make it through to the first set of anchors you should keep going because it's not any more difficult. However the gear sucks through the 11- section and a long fall is pretty much guaranteed if you let go...so don't. Great rock and cool moves.
Pitches 3, 4, and 5 can be checked out on the 'Zebra Zion' link.
Location
The Morning Glory Wall. The dihedral just left of the tree.
Protection
There are five bolts on the route, if you clip one of the anchors on top of the 10c section and the bolt one foot above the anchor which has emerged out of the wall about a 1/2 inch. Otherwise, bring a set of nuts, a few small cams (metolious 00-4), and a few medium cams (metolious 6,7,8). Just before the 11- section that the book shows you can place a bomber #4, an okay #00, or a fairly bad small stopper (or all if you want). The bolt that looms above has great holds to clip from, but just make sure you get to them.
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Morrison, CO
PDX, OR
Tuckee, Ca
Chad Feb 23, 2013
Portland, OR
As to whether or not it deserves the 'R' rating I guess one could make an argument either way. There's no place where you should really be in danger and even a fall near the top of the runout should be long but clean. No way would this be called R in Jtree, yos or the needles, but on the other hand the crux moves come well above the gear and the gear is in smith tuff, not granite.
I'm 5'6" and could clip the first bolt from those good feet, but just barely. I used a lot of small offset nuts and cams, especially in the lower hard sections. It helps if you have experience protecting pin scars, because I think that's mostly what you're doing here. The section just before the final protection bolt has some loose flakes on the left side; probably wise for the belayer to wear a helmet as both me and my partner knocked down 2-3" flakes.
Above the first anchors before the runout to the last bolt you get a bomber .5 camalot and a pretty good small offset nut/cam placement. I used a purple/grey master cam that I think would have held if the rock held. Good to have a #3 or #2 camalot or both for the easier crack below the second anchors. #4 camalot can be used to protect the last 10' or so but it's an easy hand/fist crack and #4s are heavy, so unless your crack technique is real shaky I would leave it on the ground. Apr 2, 2018
Terrebonne, OR