Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Not listed in Guides (both SHCH & Piana)
Page Views: 720 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 4, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Guided Access Only Details
Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details
Access Issue: Use the volunteer guide system. Details


There are two bolted routes on the morning sun side of Natural Buttress. The first reached is Sunny Side Up, 5.12b. Max is up right. After the first bolt, Paul Piana's gear beta: "a few 1"-2" pieces might be nice. A 3.5 friend protects the move to clip the 2nd bolt halfway up..." I think of the first half as the funky appoach and the upper half as six bolts protecting vertical-plus, sustained, 5.10 "finger-buckets" on great rock. (Piana quote again).

Not the best belay zone, but one can get in a sunny pitch here two-plus hours before the Frontside gets radiated.

I plan to use the guide system for Max Headroom and get a photo before 2009.


Walk at least 100 meters past the east end of the dam, until below the buttress. Then up through the boulders.


I'd bring the #1,2,3,4 Camalots and some slings to keep it straight.


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