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Oh My doG!

5.10, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: DA Sampson and Marcy Makarewicz
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Hackberry Creek
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description

This climb has mostly moderate moves (5.7-5.8) with the crux move (5.10) at the roof. Relatively easy climbing to get established below the roof, a series of crux moves getting over the roof, and then a fun headwall above the roof to the top.

There is what appears to be a loose block on the face below the roof, but we were unable to dislodge it; it is fairly solid. One can step around it.

Location

This route is to the right of "A Dog's Bark (The Great Roof)". Easy to spot (creek left) from almost anywhere in Hackberry creek. An improved trail makes the approach easy.

Protection

Standard rack to 3" (small gear on the lower portion of the climb). Two protection bolts, one on the lower face and one below the roof. There are two hangers with cord/webbing to rap (from A Dog's Bark).

NOTE: This climb requires a full 60m rope to rap safely to the ground.

ALSO NOTE: there is a short section of bad rock below the roof.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sean clearing the roof.
[Hide Photo] Sean clearing the roof.
Chris Hood crankin hard on Oh My Dog!
[Hide Photo] Chris Hood crankin hard on Oh My Dog!
Oh My Dog!
[Hide Photo] Oh My Dog!
Tryin to figure out the crux before sunset
[Hide Photo] Tryin to figure out the crux before sunset
Oh My doG! (O.M.D!) (photo by Marcy)
[Hide Photo] Oh My doG! (O.M.D!) (photo by Marcy)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Sampson
Tempe AZ,
  5.10
[Hide Comment] I (Geir and I) added a third bolt to this route. The intent was to enable one to clip a bolt prior to committing to the roof. However, I have not yet climbed the route since adding the hanger. Mar 2, 2009
Ryan Myers
Tempe, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] are the bolts on this route the same two you use on A Dogs Bark? Oct 29, 2012
David Sampson
Tempe AZ,
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Ryan;
No. The routes are separate (though it looks like you figured that out!). Nov 7, 2012