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Routes in Supercrack Buttress

24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Amaretto Corner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anasazi T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Rad Duality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Binge and Purge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bongo Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fledge TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Waste T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack of the Desert T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Supershack V2- 5+
Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
super bubbushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,894 total, 35/month
Shared By: Brad G on Dec 1, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is located very near some rock art, and should be avoided

This is the beautiful soaring line on the right side of SuperCrack Buttress. It goes from fingers to ringlocks and stacks. The crux for me was pulling the small roof. There are some good rests that make this line not super hard.

Just another awesome splitter at the creek!

Location

Located on the Right side of supercrack buttress. Its the first obviouse line you see on the buttress when driving north on the 211.

Protection

Many .4 and .5 camalots. There are Fixed bingers at the top. You can TR with a 70M line.

Photos

Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
I think you're right on this one Ben (although 7 months after the fact you may never see this reply). With further reflection it makes sense to take it off my list. I initially had mixed information about the route and the nearby art, to the effect that when I climbed it I didn't know for sure whether the art was authentic (IE, a Native American petroglyph). I still felt ambivalent about climbing it and pretty soon afterward confirmed that my misgivings were warranted. That was 5 years ago; now I would almost certainly avoid climbing it on principle until I had more and better information. On this climb in particular, the art is literally inches from the crack.

Initially, I thought it made sense to report my ascent (since the route was added here and touted as a classic) but also to convey that it was too close to petroglyphs to really be climbed with a clear conscience. My intent was to be as forthcoming as possible: I climbed it, yes, but in retrospect wouldn't do it again and don't think that others should either as a general rule.

In this case, I can certainly see how it might come across as hypocritical and/or self-serving in some way to have it 'ticked', but that was never my intention: I generally use the tick list for my own record and somewhat wish that it wasn't publicly viewable. For that, we always have 8a.nu and I have little desire to maintain a profile there. Dec 29, 2012
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
Drewsky, it looks like you climbed this route. What was your principle for you to onsight it? Your telling people that you climbed the route and then telling people they shouldn't climb the route for the safety of the rock art. I just don't get it. People who have climbed pink flamingo can't really tell other people not to climb pink flamingo.

It is kind of saying now that I am done with this route no one else should bother it because of the rock art. You obviously noticed the rock art before you even started your rock climb. May 30, 2012
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
If people insist on climbing this (which they really shouldn't) they should be extremely aware of the rock art (the eponymous 'flamingo'-actually representative of a wild game bird of some sort) that exists directly next to the initial crack. However, in the interest of maintaining access, climbs like this should be avoided on principle. Oct 28, 2010
Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
"Actual climbing restrictions in the plan are few. As always, no climbing where it conflicts with cultural resources (like Pink Flamingo and other routes near rock art and ruins)..."
friendsofindiancreek.org/ca… Dec 2, 2008