Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Uncut T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 125 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Pat Kingsbury, Trevor Bowman, Neil Kauffman, Kyler Pallister 11/10/08
Page Views: 1,358 total · 12/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Dec 1, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

An excellent offwidth route up an aesthetic tower! Start on the downhill face, up the obvious offwidth in a left-facing dihedral which pierces the entire tower and separates the main pinnacle from the flying buttress to the left. There's a plaque beneath the route, and a summit register wedged into the loose summit blocks.
The name comes from the profile of the tower, which is thumb-like from most directions, but especially so when viewed from directly downhill with the flying buttress as the fist and the summit pinnacle as the thumb.
P1- Starts out with new #5 camalots and gradually widens to sustained squeeze (wider than tipped out #6 friend) by the top. The rock is great, with just a bit of sandy stuff as you pull over onto the belay ledge. There are two bulges, the lower being the crux and is conveniently laybacked around. A really nice pitch, even for those who aren't OW gurus. Good belay ledge. 5.11 90'
P2- A 6 bolt ladder to the three bolt summit anchor, which is a bit below the actual summit due to rock quality. The bolts are well-spaced, so aiders are nice to have. The true topout requires carefully scrambling atop some loose blocks, a bit unnerving at first glance, but we successfully perched four guys up there without mishap. A0 25'

Location

The tower is found in the back recesses of the canyon between Critics Choice and the Prow. It's not really a part of Critics Choice, but that's the closest area.
Drive 4.8 miles up Beef Basin road from the junction with 211 (at the toilet) and turn right on a two-track. Follow this for about 1/2 mile (passable for most vehicles) until it deteriorates into a wash. Hike up the road for another 1/2 mile or so and then cut over to the hillside following washes. Slog uphill in a defined wash that has some shitrock hoodoos on the left. This should put you beneath the Thumb after about 45 minutes to an hour.
The tower is hidden against the adjacent cliff, and is very hard to discern until you're up beneath it on the approach. The route lies on the downhill face of the tower and ascends the splitter OW in a left-facing corner with a plaque beneath it.

Protection

1-new #5 camalot, 2-new #6 camalots, 2-#6 friends, blue big bro, aiders, jumars.

Photos

0 Comments

More About The Hitch Hiker's Thumb

Printer-Friendly Guide