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Routes in Bad Bananas

Allegro Energico S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Bananas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Banana Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Be All That You Can Be S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beetlejuice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Brain Full of Spiders S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bufugly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chiquita S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dancing With Feral Debutantes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Early Retirement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
El Crapitan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Plantains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jodonna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Moment of Decay S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mozambique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar the Grouch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rainbird S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vitamine P S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Western Front S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When YouÂ’re Feeling Sinister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 325 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Christian Knight
Page Views: 2,541 total · 21/month
Shared By: Christian Knight on Nov 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This 3-pitch climb goes directly up the buttress pulling over bulges and steep faces. The climbing is quite varied and adventurous. The belays are bolted at good stances and the rock quality is quite good.

P1; 5.9+, 30 meters. Climb past 12 bolts to double-ring anchors at stance in a nice alcove, while making sure to runner some of the bolts to avoid rope drag.

P2; 5.8, 33 meters. Climb past 6 bolts to a steep slot where you can place a good #1 Camalot in a crack; continue up blocky terrain past 2 more bolts then traverse left to a double-ring anchor on a ledge. Slings are useful to avoid rope drag.

P3; 5.9+, 35 meters. Climb up past the first bolt to a crack that takes a #1 Camalot. Continue up over the bulge to a hanging slab and clip 2 more bolts to the right of the dihedral. Climb up to the roof placing a #4 Camalot in the dihedral to the left.

At the roof you can place a #2 Camalot or climb just a little past the roof to a bolt. Pull the roof and clip 2 more bolts then place a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack. Pull over the bulging flake and clip the last 3 bolts on the sweet face, topping out on a ledge next to a bush with double-ring anchors.

Location

Start on the lowest point of the green tillite rock about 10 meters left of Brain Full of Spiders. Follow the light gray hangers to the top. It is possible to rappel the route with a 70 meter rope but walking off is a much easier option.

Protection

  • I would recommend bringing at least 12 quickdraws, 6-8 shoulder length slings, a few extra carabiners, and at least the #1 and #4 Camalots. And as with most climbs on this buttress, bringing a helmet is a good idea.
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Nice work, Christian. Looks like simply lovely chossiness. Feb 23, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
This is a fun route!

The rock gets progressively better the higher you go, until a simply stellar third pitch on excellent, beautiful quartzite.

For all of you choss haters out there, however, be aware that the first pitch of this line is pretty loose. Mar 15, 2009
Bret Crapo
Springville, UT
 
Bret Crapo   Springville, UT
 
"Did It!" CoreyT. Seriously, the rock gets better the higher you go. Found a bail biner at the tillite/quartzite boundary... mwah ha ha ha! Scary! Mar 20, 2009
Alec LaLonde
  5.9+
Alec LaLonde  
  5.9+
First, the good news:

-Third pitch is indeed pretty good. Belays are sweet, sometimes at nice, grassy ledges. Excellent views.

And, the bad:
-First two pitches are incredibly chossy. Test every hold. The 5.8 pitch is rather contrived as there's an easy gully 10 feet to the left. Rather inconsistently bolted (first two pitches seemed overbolted, last pitch just right) Apr 17, 2010
Owen Witesman
Springville, UT
  5.10a
Owen Witesman   Springville, UT
  5.10a
5.9+one grade = 5.10a. The roof pull on the first pitch really is harder than 5.9. The 5.9+ rating makes more sense for the third pitch since there are options right and left that take the heat off pulling straight over the roof with poor feet. Overall surprisingly good climb despite the sharp choss of pitch one. Aug 25, 2016

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