Type: Trad, 325 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Christian Knight
Page Views: 2,602 total · 20/month
Shared By: Christian Knight on Nov 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

13 Opinions

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This 3-pitch climb goes directly up the buttress pulling over bulges and steep faces. The climbing is quite varied and adventurous. The belays are bolted at good stances and the rock quality is quite good.

P1; 5.9+, 30 meters. Climb past 12 bolts to double-ring anchors at stance in a nice alcove, while making sure to runner some of the bolts to avoid rope drag.

P2; 5.8, 33 meters. Climb past 6 bolts to a steep slot where you can place a good #1 Camalot in a crack; continue up blocky terrain past 2 more bolts then traverse left to a double-ring anchor on a ledge. Slings are useful to avoid rope drag.

P3; 5.9+, 35 meters. Climb up past the first bolt to a crack that takes a #1 Camalot. Continue up over the bulge to a hanging slab and clip 2 more bolts to the right of the dihedral. Climb up to the roof placing a #4 Camalot in the dihedral to the left.

At the roof you can place a #2 Camalot or climb just a little past the roof to a bolt. Pull the roof and clip 2 more bolts then place a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack. Pull over the bulging flake and clip the last 3 bolts on the sweet face, topping out on a ledge next to a bush with double-ring anchors.


Start on the lowest point of the green tillite rock about 10 meters left of Brain Full of Spiders. Follow the light gray hangers to the top. It is possible to rappel the route with a 70 meter rope but walking off is a much easier option.


  • I would recommend bringing at least 12 quickdraws, 6-8 shoulder length slings, a few extra carabiners, and at least the #1 and #4 Camalots. And as with most climbs on this buttress, bringing a helmet is a good idea.
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Nice work, Christian. Looks like simply lovely chossiness. Feb 23, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
This is a fun route!

The rock gets progressively better the higher you go, until a simply stellar third pitch on excellent, beautiful quartzite.

For all of you choss haters out there, however, be aware that the first pitch of this line is pretty loose. Mar 15, 2009
Bret Crapo
Springville, UT
Bret Crapo   Springville, UT
"Did It!" CoreyT. Seriously, the rock gets better the higher you go. Found a bail biner at the tillite/quartzite boundary... mwah ha ha ha! Scary! Mar 20, 2009
Alec LaLonde
Alec LaLonde  
First, the good news:

-Third pitch is indeed pretty good. Belays are sweet, sometimes at nice, grassy ledges. Excellent views.

And, the bad:
-First two pitches are incredibly chossy. Test every hold. The 5.8 pitch is rather contrived as there's an easy gully 10 feet to the left. Rather inconsistently bolted (first two pitches seemed overbolted, last pitch just right) Apr 17, 2010
Owen Witesman
Springville, UT
Owen Witesman   Springville, UT
5.9+one grade = 5.10a. The roof pull on the first pitch really is harder than 5.9. The 5.9+ rating makes more sense for the third pitch since there are options right and left that take the heat off pulling straight over the roof with poor feet. Overall surprisingly good climb despite the sharp choss of pitch one. Aug 25, 2016