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Diamond in the Rough

5.10a, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 38 votes
FA: Thad Bookman, Rachel Proelss Bookman, 2003
Idaho > S Idaho > Castle Rocks > Castle Rocks > Castle Rock - S Face
Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

A really fun variation on Big Time. Just after the start of the third pitch on Big Time, traverse right to the obvious left facing crack. Skip clipping the first couple bolts on the 3rd pitch of Big Time or you'll pick up some heinous rope drag.

Word of caution for night climbing: Bats live in the crack, and if you shine your headlamp in at oh, say 2am, you might scream like a little girl as they fly out 2 inches from your face.

After the crack ends, finish by topping out on the 4th (final) pitch on Big Time, definitely need a 60m rope.

Location

Rap Big Time.

Protection

Gear to #2 Camalot. I placed 6 pieces and completely sewed it up.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The pitch.
[Hide Photo] The pitch.
The finishing moves of the sweet corner of Diamonds in the Rough
[Hide Photo] The finishing moves of the sweet corner of Diamonds in the Rough

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian in SLC
Sandy, UT
[Hide Comment] I believe its "Diamond" in the Rough.

Guidebook has it at 5.10a. Harder? Dec 2, 2008
Drew Daly
Ketchum, Idaho
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Felt more like 5.9 compared to other City 10a climbs. Fun, but a little dirty and mossy. Oct 11, 2011
JF1
Idaho
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb, didn't use anything larger than a #1 camalot. Feels soft compared to most 10s around. Feb 13, 2012
Chris Winter
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Fun pitch and a great link with Big Time. Felt 5.9 to me. Be aware that there was a beehive in the crack as a few days ago but it didn't get in the way if climbing the pitch. Sep 15, 2013
Garret Nuzzo Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Definitely no harder than 5.10a but well worth the effort if you're a couple pitches up Big Time. Crack is a bit dirty and has a nice little fern growing in it. Good crack technique and stemming keep this reasonable.

Bring a #.3 or something fairly small to protect the opening move. I had to do it unprotected and it made the climb a little spicy. You can stuff as many #.75s and #1s in this route as you can carry. I remember bringing at least one #2 as well. Guidebook says pro to 3.5 inches but I don't think there's a single spot for a #3. Jan 3, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This felt not nearly as strenuous or sustained as Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice in the City. A soft 5.10a, but harder than the 5.9s we did in the area. Very reasonable. Jan 3, 2014
Thad Bookman
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] First Ascent - Thad Bookman, Rachel Proelss Bookman, 2003 Jul 31, 2022