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Routes in The Adjective

Atrocious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ferocious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Furious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Idiotic S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lecherous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Bicycle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purulent S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaved S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicarious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vomit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Danny Kohlert
Page Views: 649 total, 6/month
Shared By: Louis Eubank on Nov 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

I wasn't a big fan of this climb. From the bottom the line looks awesome, an overhanging arete, but as I climbed, it felt really contrived. Some of the bolt placements are awkward, especially the bolt protecting the crux, which is about 4 feet away from the arete - since you are climbing on the arete at that point, you get some really awkward and painful falls. Also, there's a key left hand below the crux that is getting very loose, and will require epoxying soon. On the plus side, you can move around the arete to super easy climbing and slop your way (like I did the first time) up to the chains to avoid leaving draws on the route. Also, I've never seen anyone working any routes on the Adjective, to you have the climbs to yourself.

Location

Route is the farthest right line on the Adjective wall. Lower off (there isn't a walkoff)

Protection

10 bolts

Photos

I do not find this route "contrived", and in fact, it feels a lot like the arete on Yuji's Feet on Black Rose which is also 11c. It is even bolted in a manner very reminiscent of Yuji's with the bolts somewhat in from the arete.

I personally found this arete to be stiffer than Yuji's given its length, and the bolts through the crux are spaced generously apart adding to some of the excitement. It took me a few goes on Yuji's to figure out the feet and find the good holds. I'll see how Atrocious feels after a few goes and then decide if I still find it stiffer than Yuji's. Jun 2, 2014
Clark Aegerter 1
Orem, Utah
Clark Aegerter 1   Orem, Utah
Does anyone have more info on the "proper" way or what counts as the climb? I was on this yesterday and if you are not using the holds just past the arĂȘte this is not 11c feeling. May 7, 2014
Nic Hoggan
Provo, Ut
 
Nic Hoggan   Provo, Ut
 
Contrived is the right word for this route. The route is only a 5.11c or whatever if you don't grab the holds that are well within reach, just on the other side of the arete. Plus I'm bitter that I couldn't send the stupid thing. Jan 2, 2010