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Routes in High Neb Buttress

Cave Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Neb Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Neb Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inaccessible Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Friends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quietus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tango Buttress T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tango Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Fred Piggott early 1920s
Page Views: 20 total, 0/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Nov 29, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Tango Buttress tackles the thin, slabby face just right of Tango Crack. It is unique and interesting in that it features a thin boulder problem crux right at the bottom, then eases off substantially. The given grade is HS 5a.

Start just right of the crack with a left hand crimp and a right hand finger stack in a sloping dimple. Make a hard move to a poor horizontal, then continue up with increasing ease. At half height, you will encounter an angling right-facing groove. Delicately balance up this and join the top of Tango Crack.

Location

On the low angle face just to the right of Tango Crack. Walk off right.

Protection

Largely unprotected. The boulder crux is right off the ground, and at 12 feet there is pro. After that, the climbing eases substantially but there are only a few small nut placements.

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