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Routes in High Neb Buttress

Cave Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Neb Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Neb Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inaccessible Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Friends T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quietus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tango Buttress T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tango Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Fred Piggott early 1920s
Page Views: 23 total · 0/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Nov 29, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description [Edit]

Tango Buttress tackles the thin, slabby face just right of Tango Crack. It is unique and interesting in that it features a thin boulder problem crux right at the bottom, then eases off substantially. The given grade is HS 5a.

Start just right of the crack with a left hand crimp and a right hand finger stack in a sloping dimple. Make a hard move to a poor horizontal, then continue up with increasing ease. At half height, you will encounter an angling right-facing groove. Delicately balance up this and join the top of Tango Crack.

Location [Edit]

On the low angle face just to the right of Tango Crack. Walk off right.

Protection [Edit]

Largely unprotected. The boulder crux is right off the ground, and at 12 feet there is pro. After that, the climbing eases substantially but there are only a few small nut placements.

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