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3 Speeds on Vinyl
V7,
Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 23
votes
FA: Brett Meyers
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Rumney Bouldering
> Black Jack Boul…
> Zig Zag Area
> Fisher Block
Description
Stand start on the shelf and move right to an undercling the stand up to the crimp . from here get some high feet and throw up to the sidepull/jug. from he grab a small crimp and huck to the jugs above.
This is called Medicine Man in the Kemple guide and giving a rating of V3/V4 but, but this is the proper rating and name.
Location
Northwest side of boulder, facing Zig-Zag Crack
Protection
Pad and spotter
Center Harbor, NH
New Gloucester, ME
Center Harbor, NH
Maybe it is a misprint in the kemple guide or there seems to be a possibility going left from the start it could be that and over time it has gotten mixed up. May 17, 2010
New Gloucester, ME
3 Speed on Vinyl V7/8
Start on the shelf and move right through the crimps to get the sidepull jug - highstep the crimps and make a big move up and left to a crimp and then topout into the jungle.
The guidebook is just wrong. When V6 was suggested it was because he had a lot of reach. Feel like updating the description, Matt? Feb 2, 2011
Center Harbor, NH
Telluride, CO
Also, when I did '3 Speed', I was able to statically reach for the left hand crimp by using a left heel hook. The heel hook isn't great, but it holds surprisingly well. As for the grade, v7/8 seems appropriate (compared to the other climbs at Rumney). Once you figure it out, it's pretty reasonable.
Here's the video (first problem shown): youtu.be/kY0MsrUIiGs Jun 14, 2012
Sandwich, NH
Windham, ME
Video starts at 0:53
youtube.com/watch?v=2PB_0LK… Oct 5, 2020