Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

3 Speeds on Vinyl

V7, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 23 votes
FA: Brett Meyers
New Hampshire > Rumney > Rumney Bouldering > Black Jack Boul… > Zig Zag Area > Fisher Block

Description

Stand start on the shelf and move right to an undercling the stand up to the crimp . from here get some high feet and throw up to the sidepull/jug. from he grab a small crimp and huck to the jugs above.

This is called Medicine Man in the Kemple guide and giving a rating of V3/V4 but, but this is the proper rating and name.

Location

Northwest side of boulder, facing Zig-Zag Crack

Protection

Pad and spotter

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sticking the big move, the moves after this are the hardest.
[Hide Photo] Sticking the big move, the moves after this are the hardest.
mid big move to sidepull/jug.
[Hide Photo] mid big move to sidepull/jug.
The line...
[Hide Photo] The line...
undercling.
[Hide Photo] undercling.
Medicine Man
[Hide Photo] Medicine Man

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  V7-8
[Hide Comment] Im pretty sure that one of the top out holds has broken off me and several others were looking at this today and couldnt figure the top out. anyone else notice this? Sep 3, 2009
BDalhaus
New Gloucester, ME
[Hide Comment] I remember working this years ago with Brett & Eman, but I don't think anything broke. They told me it was a V6 with a completely different name. May 17, 2010
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  V7-8
[Hide Comment] That would make sense it seems a lot harder then V3/4.

Maybe it is a misprint in the kemple guide or there seems to be a possibility going left from the start it could be that and over time it has gotten mixed up. May 17, 2010
BDalhaus
New Gloucester, ME
[Hide Comment] Here's the real info -

3 Speed on Vinyl V7/8

Start on the shelf and move right through the crimps to get the sidepull jug - highstep the crimps and make a big move up and left to a crimp and then topout into the jungle.

The guidebook is just wrong. When V6 was suggested it was because he had a lot of reach. Feel like updating the description, Matt? Feb 2, 2011
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  V7-8
[Hide Comment] All updated Bryce, this makes a lot more sense! Feb 2, 2011
[Hide Comment] I climbed this a few years ago and have been calling it medicine man left v6 if this helps Apr 7, 2011
[Hide Comment] Oh, i just saw the full forum, I'm 6'5'' so you may be right with v7/8, crimpy/reachy Apr 7, 2011
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7-8
[Hide Comment] Just wanted to let people know that I cleaned a direct version of '3 Speed' (aka Medicine Man). I posted it up here as 'Up Into The Green Silence'. Check it out!

Also, when I did '3 Speed', I was able to statically reach for the left hand crimp by using a left heel hook. The heel hook isn't great, but it holds surprisingly well. As for the grade, v7/8 seems appropriate (compared to the other climbs at Rumney). Once you figure it out, it's pretty reasonable.

Here's the video (first problem shown): youtu.be/kY0MsrUIiGs Jun 14, 2012
Greg Lee
  V7
[Hide Comment] Fyi, the sidepull felt like it was loose as I was doing the top couple of moves today. Seemed like it might be detached but still wedged in the rest of the rock. Good problem, would hate to see it break. Oct 22, 2018
[Hide Comment] Has anyone done this with on going straight up with the side pull instead of going out left to the left crimp? I did not feel the left crimp but going straight up didn't feel terrible and lead the way to great jugs quickly. Aug 26, 2019
Parker Caswell
Sandwich, NH
  V7
[Hide Comment] Easy traverse into 2-3 hard moves and a committing but safe top-out. One of my favorites movement wise, but lacks sustained difficulty. Crux move gets two stars on its own!! Mar 16, 2020
Shaun Davies
Windham, ME
  V7
[Hide Comment] Got on this over the weekend and the side pull jug has gotten more wiggly since this summer so be careful. Really fun climb!
Video starts at 0:53
youtube.com/watch?v=2PB_0LK… Oct 5, 2020