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The Right Nut

5.10a, Trad, 125 ft (38 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 6 votes
FA: Unknown could have been just about anyone.
Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP > Testes
Warning Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

This crack faces the road and is on the opposite side of the same crack as The Left Nut. Walk up and climb the crack until you are on top of The Right Nut. (This is actually the left smaller nut when viewing from the road. Rap off the top or belay your partner up and walk over, downclimb just a little, and finish on the ending of The Left Nut.
The ending of the climb has really nice rock and some great hand and fist jams with a short section of chimney thrown in for good measure.
This crack seems a little harder than The Left Nut and much more jamming than The Left Nut.

Location

This crack faces the road and ends on the lower nut or the left one when viewing from the road.

Protection

A set of cams from 1" to 5" with a couple of extra 3" and 3.5".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

no worries, theres bomber new anchors
[Hide Photo] no worries, theres bomber new anchors
from the road
[Hide Photo] from the road

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

paul bucher
moab, utah
[Hide Comment] we easily bagged (so to speak) right nut from left. Sep 24, 2012
[Hide Comment] Paul, best comment ever on Mtn Project! Cam Nov 26, 2012
[Hide Comment] I think we actually belayed atop the Right Nut while climbing the Left! Aug 22, 2022
[Hide Comment] I stood on the right nut when we did the FA of the Left. I’m surprised this is considered a different route….. Jun 15, 2023
Darren Knezek
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This crack faces the road. Your route is the crack on the other side of the tower. You definitely stood on the right nut before you did the left nut. Same nut different crack. Jun 16, 2023