Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 266 total · 2/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Nov 28, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Sit start in the narrow cave with your hands matched on a right facing blocky hold. Pick some feet and fire up to the large rail above. Surf the rail left for a few feet, before toping out via the obvious crimps.

Location

In cave formed by two boulders in the entrance boulders fairly obvious, it's on your right as you walk into the Black Jack Boulders.

Protection

Pad and spotter.

Photos

Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
There's a one-move sit start that goes at V10. Find a crimp and side-pull about in the middle of the cave, make a hard move to gain the rail, and top out as for Caver's. Apr 9, 2010
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
One powerful move followed by jugs (more or less). But, outstanding rock quality and really friendly holds. Sep 25, 2013
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Where does this climb actually start? I've done it twice but I still don't know if I've been starting it wrong because it doesn't feel at all v5. I'm starting as far right in the cave on the big rail as I can. I think my right hand starts down on a sidepull thing initially. Any description other than just "start back in the cave" would help. Apr 25, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5
Hi Jake, sorry about the confusion, I updated the description to better describe the route. It sounds like you were starting one move in! Apr 25, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Yeah I guess I was Matt! Thanks for updating the description. Apr 26, 2016
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH  
This little bugger feels harder than the Direct. I must have terrible beta or baby-weak tendons. The start-hold is awkward and the first move is huge and height dependent. Anyone have hand beta on how they were holding the weird sidepull start hold, and feet for the first move? Nov 12, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5
Brad- I have footage of me doing this climb in my 'Rumney Blocs' video, so that may enable you to glean some insight into body position, foot holds, etc. I do think this climb is probably a little easier for taller folks, in terms of how big the move is and ease of keeping the feet on, while 'Caver's Direct' is probably easier for shorter folks because of the scrunchy start and dabbiness. Nov 13, 2017