Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,068 total · 17/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Nov 28, 2008 with updates from Ryan Bouldin
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Sit start on left hand jug and a right hand crimp. Make a long move to a good pocket, move you feet around and get into the business. Move left hand to a crimp and move right hand up right to a three finger crimp. From here traverse left to the quartz jug in the crack and tackle the high but safe top out.

Location

On the backside (north) of the entrance boulder, powerful face, left of the arete.

Protection

Pads and Spotters.

Photos

Lanky
Tired
  V7
Lanky   Tired
  V7
Definitely a worthwhile problem, though a bit sharp. The topout may be dirty, so a pre-brushing wouldn't hurt if you're planning to hop on this. Apr 9, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
Anyone have any beta for this problem? Oct 14, 2010
Lanky
Tired
  V7
Lanky   Tired
  V7
All I really remember is the sequence beginning from the sharp right hand 3/4 undercling. From there, you reach out left to a triangle hold (maybe using an intermediate), then I matched there and went up with the left hand to the obvious break above the lip. Then it's a funky match and high backstep to reach the top and walk off. I think.

I could give you the blow-by-blow if I were standing there, but from my keyboard that's the best I can do. Oct 19, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
Hey man thanks for the beta, I am stoked on this problem right now! Oct 20, 2010
Lanky
Tired
  V7
Lanky   Tired
  V7
Check this out for some completely different beta: youtube.com/watch?v=zLt0pa0… Oct 21, 2010
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7-8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7-8
This problem deserves more praise than it gets. It's an obvious, natural and aesthetic line with sustained and interesting moves on quality rock to a highball finish. With a flat landing no less! The only real detraction is the sharpness of the rock and even that isn't really that bad.

Definitely one of the better hard climbs at the Blackjacks. Jun 20, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7-8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7-8
Some video of the problem (starts at 1:01):

vimeo.com/45004357 Jul 1, 2012
Jamie Re
Providence, RI
  V8
Jamie Re   Providence, RI
  V8
Does anyone know if the direct line up the arete has been done? I was looking at it a few weeks ago when my GF made go rope climbing up there and it doesn't look too bad... in fact it looks sweet as hell haha. Sep 13, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V7-8
I know it has been done, it have seen it called Bobby's Arete nd I think they said it was V7(?). Climb it and let us know! Sep 14, 2012
Jamie Re
Providence, RI
  V8
Jamie Re   Providence, RI
  V8
Hopefully going to hit this up this weekend! Wheeee! Apr 23, 2013
eddysamson
  V7-
eddysamson  
  V7-
Flashed this today. There's no way its an 8, my hardest flash was a 5 before this. Awesome climb though, my exact style. I did the arrete after and couldn't flash that though haha Apr 19, 2015
Grant Eaton
Oxford, OH
 
Grant Eaton   Oxford, OH
 
Great problem. Felt more like a 6-7 or even just a 6. Took me a bit to see the heel-hook move. May 30, 2017
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
If this is V7, Child Prodigy must be V8.
Great problem, but the grade is hard to understand. Mar 1, 2018